Sunday, 21 February 2016

Young Pacesetter┃Vanity Fair (1965)




Get the mood of the young pacesetter. She's thrown caution and convention to the winds; she's witty and with it; she's carefree, untrammeled by fuddy duddy fashion rules. She chooses her clothes for fun, she lets them dictate the mood, and it's a mood she throws her whole self into: she wears her clothes with confidence and a high sense of fun. She knows she looks different - and she revels in it. For her life is a bowl of cherries and she doesn't take anything too seriously, least of all herself. She treats her clothes as an extension of her own gay, witty personality. Get in the mood. Get the clothes and let spring fever spill into your life. Slough off your neat, efficient, businesswoman personality as you cover your typewriter. These are the clothes for crazy evenings when you could dance all night, for wild weekends and long, carefree holidays when the world is yours to go mad as a hatter.

All clothes by Mary Quant's Ginger Group
Buckle on a skirt that fastens round your neck with a T strap. It's cut on a flare from natural hessian and the top is bound with black braid, 84s. Peaked hessian cap with an embroidered black trefoil, 63s. Short-sleeved skinny rib wool sweater, 35s. All clothes by Mary Quant's Ginger Group. 

Hoist up your mid-length dress and show off rows and rows of frills on your matching pantaloons. The dress, slightly flared, is lime green wild silk. By Avantgarde, 29gns for the dress and pantaloons.  Rope of giant pearls and pearl stud ear-rings, both by Adrien Mann. Pearls 50s, ear-rings 17s:6d. 

Zip yourself up in the zippiest slacks. They're pale turquoise and they've got a zipped fly front, zipped pockets, and the all time longest zip right down the leg. By Peroche, 12gns. Skinny polo necked sleeveless sweater in pale blue Bri-Nylon by Wolsey, 39s:11d,  Navy and black stripey belt by Gucci, 90s.

Shimmy your way into the briefest Charleston dress. It's made of thick white cobweb net over a stunning fuschia crepe lining; it fits like a glove at bust and hip, casts scarcely a glance at the waist; it finishes at both ends with a deep fringe. By Martha Hill, 6½gns. Pink chiffon scarf to make a bow, by Ascher, 52s:9d. Beige lacy stockings by Plaza, 13s: 11d.

Slink into a daring black crochet dress that reveals just what you want it to. It was designed to be worn with nothing underneath - but if you daren't, then wear a black slip. The neck, arms and hemline are scalloped. By Susan Small, £9:12s:6d. Bow fronted black shoes by Saxone, 59s:11d.

All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Vanity Fair February 1965. All photographs by Sandra Lousada. Photographed on location in the new building at The Economist, St James's. Visit Sandra Lousada's website and view more examples of her work at The National Portrait Gallery. Discover more about designer Martha Hill and view some later examples  of her work. And finally, another example of the Mary Quant hessian pinafore with halter-neck fastening courtesy of the V&A Collection.

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