Wednesday, 30 April 2014

Cosak is Orbiting Course as Planned (1967)

Cosak is Orbiting Course as Planned
Feel the great ship steady beneath your feet. Out there across the cold reaches of space the moon hangs motionless. You are on course. Forget the computations. Concentrate on Cosak. Cosak is new. A cloth of incomparable elegance.  55% Terylene, 45% Mohair; blended by a novel twist to make a space-age yarn; woven into a modern fable. Unique. Superb. Steel and silk. Cool and crisp. A lightweight faultlessly superior. 

Vintage 1960s Fashion Advert

Image scanned by Sweet Jane from London Look, 8 July 1967. Photograph by Alec Murray. 

Wednesday, 23 April 2014

Rock Buster (1970)

I purchased this Lp sometime around the late 1990s, in the second hand section of a record shop in Dublin called 'The Secret Book & Record Store', which is very suitably named, because although it's located less than a minute away from one of the principal shopping streets in the heart of the city centre, it's completely obscured from view. Firstly, behind a rather inconspicuous doorway, then further on down the end of a long, narrow corridor, and after that, behind yet another door! Therefore, not exactly easy to find, but definitely worth it once you have! The lp itself is a double, released by CBS in 1970 as the fourth and final in a series of budget priced rock sampler albums. It features 26 tracks in total, from various artists such as Bob Dylan, The Byrds, Blood Sweat & Tears, as well as Dublin's own Skid Row

And although I have one other in the series, this is definitely my favourite of the two, purely from a visual point of view though, musically I prefer its predecessor from 1968 which was called 'Rock Machine I Love You'. I was instantly attracted to the sleeve design which features a newspaper print photograph of Arnold Schwarzenegger from his Mr Universe days― superimposed onto a vibrant pop art graphic background. It reminded me of aspects of the work of so many artists that I admire, from Peter Blake to Richard Hamilton.  Being a classic 1970s double album, it also features a gatefold sleeve (the champion of cover art and loyal friend of the liner note) making even the inner cover noteworthy. A more detailed view of the track listing can be found over at Discogs. And you can view the work of pop artist Peter Blake as mentioned above, in one of my previous posts

All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Rock Buster 1970. Compiled by David Howells. Sleeve Design & Art by Bloomsbury Group in Conjunction with Arthur Bayes Associates. Photograph of Arnold Schwarzenegger courtesy of Weider (U.K) Ltd. Discover more about The Secret Book & Record Store. View another one of my previous posts about pop artist Peter Blake. And finally, visit the first comprehensive retrospective of the work of pop artist Richard Hamiltion


Friday, 18 April 2014

The Paris Boutique of Yé -Yé Girl Sylvie Vartan | Mademoiselle Age Tendre (1967)

The Paris Boutique of Yé -Yé Girl

 Sylvie Vartan

Yé-Yé girl Sylvie Vartan photographed at her Paris boutique in August 1967, where she would spend two to three afternoons per week working when she wasn't busy performing or recording. Sylvie was pretty much 'hands on' in the day to day running of the boutique, it was more like a second job rather than just another celebrity business venture. She played a very active role, designed most of the garments and chose all of the accessories herself. The shop layout and decor were also a reflection of her personal taste. She had an oversized version of her favourite flower 'a daisy' made especially for the window display and carried this design feature throughout the shop as a motif, it was printed on the front of her t-shirt collection and various other items. 


All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Mademoiselle Age Tendre Aout No.34 1967. Photographer uncredited. Visit the official Sylvie Vartan website here. Read about Sylvie's career and listen to her here.   Learn more about the Yé-Yé Girls of '60s French Pop here.


Sunday, 13 April 2014

Bedsitter Girl Jane Asher┃Nova Magazine (1966)




I'm sure that many of you are already quite familiar with this photograph of Jane Asher, it has been reproduced several times in various fashion books over the years, but was originally published in an article called The Time, The Place, The Dress, and (if you still need it) The Food by Molly Parkin for Nova in 1966. Printed poster-sized over a double-page layout, measuring 51.5 cm x 34cm for full visual impact! Molly commissioned Ossie Clark and Celia Birtwell to design a dress especially for the feature, she specifically wanted something which represented not only the fast-paced, disposable, transient nature of the current youthful attitude towards fashion trends but also something with enough decorative value to end up on the wall in a bedsitter as pop paraphernalia after it had been worn at the weekend, rather than thrown out with the trash!  So what better candidate for potential 'wall art' than a printed paper dress! Celia painted her initial ideas in gouache, inspired by the work of Paul Poiret and illustrations from La Gazzete du Bon Ton, the finished designs were then printed onto a suitable Johnson & Johnson manufactured paper by the 'Art to Wear' company of Zika Ascher, and the dresses were made to order for the sum of 17s 6d each. I love the fact that Celia also took it upon herself to paint the vinyl floor tiles in the mock-up bedsit, mirroring the design detail from the border of the garment to complete the overall look. And that Molly (a woman after my own heart), attributed just about every single item on display in the magazine feature to its original source, from the Biba beads right down to the Woolworth lollipops and sticks of rock!

On the floor: Jane Asher in a dress designed by Ossie Clark made of printed paper fabric designed by Celia Birtwell; made to order in small, medium and large sizes, approximately 17s 6d. Bangle at Woolworths, 2s 9d. Vinyl floor tiles painted by Celia Birtwell. Lilac patent shoe by Russell & Bromley, 7½ gns. Amber patent shoe by Elliot, 8 gns. Coloured cigarette by Sobraine, 7s 2d for twenty. Coloured crepe stockings by Russell & Bromley, 6s 11d. Pop tin tray by Goods & Chattels. 9s 6d.

 Close-up of the design detail from the border of the dress. 

Above: One of Celia's initial designs for the paper dress rendered in gouache, inspired by the work produced at the Martine School of Decorative Arts in Paris. The school was set up by designer Paul Poiret in 1911 at 'La Maison Poiret' in an endeavour to realise his dream of creating a decorative arts movement in France which would be on par with the new developments in the arts taking place in Vienna and Germany at this time. The students mainly consisted of young working class girls between the ages of 12-15 years old, Poiret encouraged them to work freely from nature, organising trips to the countryside and conservatories whenever possible, but apart from this input they were otherwise without artistic supervision. His role was merely to stimulate their artistic taste without influencing or criticising them, in order to maintain the purity of the original source of inspiration in the work. He would then select a range from the finished designs which were suitable for reproduction and have them applied to fabrics, wallpapers, carpets, cushions and ceramics.

The work received an excellent response amongst art circles, and following an exhibition at the Salon d'Automne in 1912 the demand was such that Poiret opened a retail outlet called 'Atelier Martine' on Rue du Faubourg St Honoré. With a very favourable review in Vogue, the Martines went from strength to strength, also using their designs to create magnificent large scale murals, transforming hotels, shops, offices, private houses and the studio of dancer Isadora Duncan into exotic oriental palaces in the process. An international reputation was quickly established, however, the gathering momentum of the Martines success was  stopped in its tracks by the outbreak of WW1 in 1914. The school closed for the duration of the war, with many of the students relocated to a safer environment. Business eventually resumed as normal in the aftermath, but although Poiret tried several times to re-establish his career and the Martine style, most notably in the mid 1920s with an extravagant display at the International Art Deco Fair in Paris, both failed to ever regain the immense popularity of their glory days. 

Three designs for round carpets, typical of the Martine style, from the workbooks of the School of Decorative Arts.                               

The Table: green paper drum table by Hull Traders Ltd, £3 13s. On the table: Large glass jar, £2, full of Smarties, Liquorice Allsorts and Barratt's assorted sweets; glass-topped storage jar, 6s 6d, containing dolls' eyes from Pedigree Dolls; spice jars, 2s 9d; glass dish, 7s 6d a pair, contain bath oils at Boots, 6s 6d. All the glassware from The Scientific Glassblowing Co Ltd. Hexagonal coloured boxes by Goods & Chattels, £1 17s 6d a set.

On the wall: wooden beads at Biba's, 11s. Striped shoes at Fifth Avenue, £3 19s 11d. Red and green shoe by Walter Steiger for Bally, 9½ gns. Bead bracelet at Biba's, 5s 6d. Dress designed by Ossie Clark of printed paper fabric designed by Celia Birtwell, made to order, 17s 6d. Plastic earrings by Paco Rabanne, £1 10s. Bangle at Woolworth, 2s 9d. Pink patent shoe by Russell & Bromley, £3 19s 11d. Woolworth lollipops. Paper roses from Portobello Road market. Dried flowers at Natural Fern Display Ltd, from 3s 6d each. Large wooden beads at Biba's, £1 2s 6d. Pearly Queen dress from Hector Binney stall, Bermondsey market.

The Bed: emerald green wooden bed by Gary Griffiths at Vasa, approximately £30. Green sheets at John Lewis, £5 19s 6d a set. Orange and red shoe by Walter Steiger at Bally, 9½ gns. Leather and suede shoe by Salvatore Ferragamo, 14 gns. Woolworth's rock, 1s a stick.

All images scanned by Sweet Jane from an original article by Molly Parkin for NOVA, September 1966. Model; Jane Asher. All Photographs by Duffy. Celia Birtwell design in gouache scanned from Celia Birtwell by Celia Birtwell.  *The Close-up of border design detail on the printed dress courtesy of the V&A collection. Carpet designs from the Martine School of Decorative Arts scanned from A Fashion For Extravagance by Sara Bowman.
Visit the Celia Birtwell website here. Listen to Molly Parkin on Desert Island Discs here. Watch Great Lives-The Molly Parkin Documentary here. Read about the life and times of of Zika Ascher here. View an issue of La Gazette du Bon Ton from 1914 here and finally, read about the career of designer Paul Poiret  & view examples of his work here.

Tuesday, 8 April 2014

Get Out Of Town - Fast! | Regent Advert (1966)

Get Out Of Town - Fast! 


So the petrol war is hotting up? Get on the winning side, fast. Ride Regent―the lively one that's waking up Petrolsville.

Caroline Sanders 1966

Image & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from the Observer magazine, May 1966. Model: Caroline Sanders. Photograph by Duffy.

Saturday, 5 April 2014

The Campbell's Hang-Up Poster┃John Alcorn (1968)

The Campbell's Hang-Up Poster

John Alcorn




A wild, wacky way to have your soup and get a way-out poster, too! Turn your wall souper-delic! This poster's a "biggy" - 2 feet by 3 feet. Get it by sending 3 different labels from either Campbell's Tomato, Vegetable Beef, Chicken Vegetable, Chicken Gumbo, Chilli Beef or Beef Noodle Soup, and 50¢ with the coupon below. The Campbell'll make Campbell kids everywhere say...M'm! M'm! Groovy!

  Image Credit

Image scanned by Sweet Jane from LIFE, December 6, 1968. Illustration by John Alcorn.

Tuesday, 1 April 2014

Velmar Girls - Vogue (1967)


Heather Daltrey 1967

Velmar deep pile fabrics are the wild ones. You'll find the swinging purple label on all sorts of bright fashion ideas. On coats, hats, jackets and boots. Inside or out. When Velmar and Courtelle get together, you get the softest, warmest, easycare clothes that ever turned heads. Velmar turns an everyday journey into a whistle stop tour. Try it.

Image scanned by Sweet Jane from VOGUE September 15th, 1967. Model Heather Daltrey (wife of Roger Daltrey).