Thursday, 24 May 2012

Morgan Le Faythful! | Peter Blake's Pop Art Poster of Marianne Faithfull (1968)




I'm so pleased to have finally acquired a copy of this extremely rare issue of The Daily Telegraph Magazine. The cover girl is Marianne Faithfull, and the cover imagepainted in comic-strip style, was designed as a mail-order poster for the supplement by British pop artist Peter Blake, who took his inspiration for Marianne's character from the Arthurian legend of Morgan Le Fay―come on her dragon to bring life to a desolate Britain. 

Blake created the poster by painting upon a photograph of Marianne taken by Hans Feurer, and was assisted on the project by his then wife, the incredibly talented sculptress Jann Haworth, who made the dragon―decorating it in fairground colours and also created the sorceress costume that Marianne is wearing. The finished result which measured 20'' x 30'' was issued for sale through the magazine via mail-order for the bargain price of  3s 6d. in April of 1968, just prior to the initial release of Marianne's appearance in The Girl on the Motorcycle, in which she starred alongside Alain Delon. I wonder how many of these posters they printed...and also how many they actually sold...and mostly, I wonder where are they all now?, because I don't recall ever seeing any. One thing's for sure...mail-order coupons sure ain't what they used to be!

Peter Blake's 'Morgan Le Faythful' pop art poster of Marianne Faithfull painted in comic-strip style, showing Marianne as a modern version of Morgan Le Fay of Arthurian legend―come on her dragon to bring life to a desolate Britain, as it appeared on the cover of  The Daily Telegraph Magazine, April 10th, 1968. 

The Morgan Le Faythful poster mail-order coupon. The Daily Telegraph Magazine, April 10th, 1968.

The artist at workPeter Blake photographed while creating the Morgan Le Faythful poster (1968). 

Blimey! It's Morgan Le Faythful!! She will save us!!! Morgan Le Faythful poster by Peter Blake (1968). Original photo of Marianne by Hans Feurer, sorceress costume and dragon created by Jann Haworth, and her hair was styled by Martin from Leonard's of Mayfair.  

All images scanned by Sweet Jane from The Daily Telegraph 10th April, 1968. Further reading about The Girl on the Motorcycle (Dir. Jack Cardiff, 1968) also known as Naked Under Leather. View The Girl on the Motorcycle, and some of my previous post about Biker influenced fashion such as Smoke and Leather (1971). Rags for Riders (1971) and Dolly Rockers - Rave Magazine (1968). Peter Blake: The pioneer of Pop Art talks about his illustrious career and why he prefers hugs to drugs. A colossal cabinet of curiosities: Take a look inside Peter Blake's studio. Watch Peter Blake - What Do Artists Do All Day? (BBC Documentary Series). View some of my previous posts about 1960s poster art and pop design: The Men Behind the Poster Boom (1968); The Psychedelic Poster Art of Michael English and Nigel Waymouth; Rock Buster (1970); Frisco and Lorenzo Wong and Wildman Michael Chow by Peter Blake (1968); Discover more about the Arthurian legend of Morgan Le Fay. And finally, visit the website of the artist Jann Haworth.

Wednesday, 23 May 2012

Mary Quant's Ginger Group┃Seventeen Magazine (1967)



A two page fashion editorial originally published in September 1967, featuring designs from Mary Quant's Ginger Group. It also includes guest modelling appearances by The Yardbirds, Georgie Fame, James Fox, Jack Bond, David Mlinaric, and Michael Rainey of Hung On You.

England's best-known young designer (Quant? Quite!) changed the face of fashion (she set it on its ears) and still keeps spinning out the news. Now she dips into fresh fields of color, places waistlines at low, hemlines at high. Flipsy Daisy above, comes on strong in the calmest kind of pink - called Bermuda - with a skirt, tucked all around, that looks up in perpetual motion. About $45. Backing it up: The Yardbirds, the cool sound in "Blow Up" and on the epic single "Little Games". 

Football Ripples, above, in a dress pinched from a halfback: Bermuda pink with beige, tucked and pleated to touchdown! in bonded wool jersey, About $50.  Beaming approval is recording star Georgie Fame, England's Top Pop personality in 1967. His look: a suede and lamb jacket from the Chelsea Antique Market.

Mary Quant cares about the total look, does coats so good you don't mind covering up her dresses! Above, the case for the Costume look. It's basically a coachman coat, and in this super-version of Bermuda pink wool melton, and gold buttons and braid, all roads lead to you. About $100. There's more news in this curly-girl English hairdo; heads may be turning for it soon, About to turn, two young film-makers: James Fox, left, who appeared in Universal's "Thoroughly Modern Millie." Director-producer Jack Bond, right, has explored the world of poets, Dali, women and their wants.

A coat that keeps the most interesting company, above, is this marvellous Tibetan lamb―the kind of fur that warms you without a bit of bulk. The creamy beige color responds to strong suede trim in olive-brown, with nice exaggerations in the collar and belt. Roat of London; about $300. Two's company here. At left: young Londoner David Mlinaric, brilliant designer of the nightclub Sibylla's and Michael Rainey, right, designs men's fashionsincluding psychedelic underwear!

All images scanned by Sweet Jane from an original editorial in Seventeen Magazine, September 1967, all photographs by Joseph Santoro. The suit that Michael Rainey is wearing in this photograph is fairly similar to one that was on sale in his Hung On You boutique around the same time, you can view an example of it in one of my recent posts, Clothes to be in Love in Queen Magazine (1967). Discover more about David Mlinaric in Return of the Dandy (1966), and also Anne 'Sibylla' Edmonstone whom Sibylla’s nightclub was named after. 

Monday, 21 May 2012

40 ways to go nutty! | Seventeen Magazine (1967)

40 ways to go nutty! 


And why shouldn't your legs be as nutty as the rest of you? Especially when Kayser gives you a choice of over 20 colors in wacky styles of stockings and pantyhose. In fact, you'll probably want to start a collection. You can get pantyhose in fishnet. In opaque colors to mix or match with your clothes. And in great opaque textured fishnet. Stockings are available in opaque and fishnet styles in all the colors you could want. Now on the word go...go nutty. GO.

Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Seventeen magazine, September 1967. 

Sunday, 20 May 2012

Clothes to be in Love in┃Queen Magazine (1967)

A four page editorial from Queen Magazine, first published in November 1967, it's pretty much got it all going on...a rather booze fuelled love affair, furniture by one of the masters of Modernism, clothes and accessories from Quorum, Mary Farrin, Mary Quant, Gucci, Hung On You, Mr Fish, and hairstyling by Leonard of Mayfair! 


Clothes to be in love in...You'll be so nice to come home to in utterly feminine soft wool, especially if you warm the cockles of his heart with Madeira as the aperitif. You and you wicked ploys...Or look demure in frilly shirt and sumptuous velvet skirt; all sweetness and light and Madeira comfort. Clever you...Quick-change artistry to classic black with Tudor lace at cuffs and collar and bottled Elizabethan charm all the way from the island of Madeira. And you'll be adorable in angora. Cuddle-up and huddle-up and pass the decanter, darling...

Rosalind Yehuda, Charles Jourdan, Mary Quant, 1960s fashion
Hers, blue knitted angora dress, by Rosalind Yehuda, with silver Lurex threading stripes around the hem, cuffs, under bust and below neck. Silver stockings by Mary Quant. Silver shoes, with high Louis heels, by Charles Jourdan. Round hair slide at Leonard. Rose-coloured glasses by Oliver Goldsmith.

His, navy blue serge double-breasted suit, with white buttons, at Hung On You. White cashmere polo-necked sweater at Turnbull and Asser. Black patent leather moccasins, with silver buckles, by Gucci. Madeira, very dry and light aperitif-Sercial.

Hers, White turtle-necked blouse, white lace jabot in front and lace on sleeves; short black velvet skirt with satin bands on both side, satin covered belt and cut steel buckle; both by Marcel Fenez. Diamond brooch, made in Spain in the eighteenth century, from S. J. Philips. Black stockings by Charnos.

His, black silk turtle-necked Russian shirt from Turnbull and Asser. White trousers from Laurence Corner Government Surplus Stores. Coffee table by Marcel Breuer at Aram. Madeira, medium dry-Verdelho.

Hers, maxi-length dress, by Quorum, in black crepe, with glass buttons down front, high sleeves, and white lace at collar and cuffs. Black stockings by Charnos. Black crepe shoes by Charles Jourdan. Enamel rings from S. J. Phillips.

His, white silk ruffled-front dress-shirt; black velvet bow-tie; black silk smoking jacket and white Indian silk handkerchief; all from Turnbull and Asser. Black velvet trousers from Mr Fish. Diamante cuff-links by Felicity Bosanquet. Black patent leather dancing pumps at Lobb. Madeira, medium sweet-Bual.

Hers, backless dress, half-pink, half-white, by Mary Farrin, in fluffy angora, with very high front. Pink silk stockings by Bear brand. Pink crepe shoes, with square paste and pink brilliante buckle, by Charles Jourdan. Hair-styles are by Leonard.

His, long high-necked Prussian-style Indian silk dressing gown in turquoise and mauve paisley design, from Turnbull and Asser. Madeira, rich sweet-Malsmey. Bed-cover in silver PVC by Anderson Manson. Spotted plastic cushions at Presents of Sloane Street. Decanter at Clewes and Makin. 

All image scanned by Sweet Jane from an original editorial for Queen Magazine, November, 1967. All photographs by John Stember.

Saturday, 19 May 2012

Psychedelic Boutique?...(1969)


1869 - 1969

vintage advert Donal Brun 1960s  illustration

Pychedelic Boutique?  Well, unfortunately not, this is actually an advert for a meat cannery! However, as a vegetarian and an admirer of 1960s fashion illustration...I prefer to think of it as such, because it's way too beautiful to have ever been used for its intended purpose!

Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Gebrauchsgraphik International, June 1970, illustration by Donald Brun (1969).

Friday, 18 May 2012

Post yourself ahead! | Queen Magazine (1969)

Post yourself ahead! 

A four page editorial from Queen Magazine, originally published in 1969, suggesting various ways to wear a new range of head scarves. Step this way to achieve your most desired look, are you a vamp, a nun, a pirate or a spy?

Fact: Three-cornered double giselle hood, by Linda Archer Boutique, in black, white, red, green, blue, beige, pink, apricot, flame or lavender.

Figure: £4 5s, at Simpson, Piccadilly, W1, or by post (2s 6d extra for postage and packing) from Cardogan Postal Service, 43a Wigmore Street, W1.

Fantasy: Day and/or night suitability cutting down hairdresser's bills; throttling the Postmaster General or....

As a vamp-bring one side round to the other and tie over an ear, then wind a pearl band around your head, tie it and knot it with the hood (the band of pearls ending in tassels, by Adrien Mann, about £7 10s ; from Debenham and Freebody, Wigmore Street, W1.), and add a black rayon georgette cat suit, by Frank Usher, about £22 5s; at Derry and Toms, Kensington High Street, W8 ; pearl and black enamel rings from a selection at the Purple Shop.

As a nun-just put it on your head and leave the ends loose, and add a silver cross set with onyx, about £9 ; from a selection at the Purple Shop, Chelsea Antique Market, King's Road, SW3.

As a pirate-bring one side round to the other and tie over an ear, and add a black satin shirt, single- breasted, buttoning down front, by Ossie Clark, 10gns; at Quorum, Radnor Walk, SW3; plus link bracelet in dark brown with gold beading; gilt and brown-stone belt set on black velvet, £15; rings; all from a selection at the Purple Shop; and a stamp with a possible post-budget design fot the PMG's second class mail....

As a spy-bring one side round to the other and tie over an ear, then tie a scarf around your head, and knot it with the hood, and add a round pearl ring ; from a selection ( like the black and white spotted scarf, £10) at the Purple Shop, Chelsea Antique Market.

All images scanned by Sweet jane from Queen Magazine, April 1969, all original text courtesy of Queen, all photographs by John Vaughan.

Saturday, 5 May 2012

Lee Jeans | Gebrauchsgraphik International (1970)


   Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Gebrauchsgraphik International June 1970.

Tuesday, 1 May 2012

The Rise and Decline of the Afghan Coat 1966-197?

The Rise and Decline of the Afghan Coat 1966-197?

The Afghan coat made its debut appearance onto the London fashion scene in 1966, as the swinging city began to turn its attention towards all things of Asian influence. They were first imported by Craig Sams, who then sold them on through various boutiques such as Granny Takes a Trip on the Kings Road, where the popularity of the coats soared overnight after the Beatles had been photographed wearing their recent purchases from the aforementioned shop. The original imports from the Ghazni province situated between Kabul and Kandahar were incredibly beautiful and elaborately decorated with hand embroidery by the local artisans. However, as demand increased globally they could not keep up a steady supply and eventually crude imitations from other areas began to flood the market...and these were the ones which gave the Afghan coat its undeserved bad reputation, mainly due to the fact that the skins had not been cured properly. This in turn apparently caused the coats to permeate the air around them with an extremely undesirable odour—more often than not it was combined with the added aroma of Patchouli oil favoured by hippies, which to this day, seems to linger on in the memory of anyone who was unfortunate enough to be in close proximity to someone wearing one.

Having said that, regardless of the odour, they continued on to become more than just a fleeting trend. And even though their general popularity is now long gone, they have left an indelible mark 0n fashion history and will forever be associated as an integral part of the iconic look of the hippie movement of the 1960s and 1970s. I can't say for definite when their reign as a popular item of clothing officially began to decline, without a doubt the advent of Glam Rock followed by the emerging Punk Scene pretty much killed them off from the mainstream, but I'm sure that there were still a few hippies happily wearing their Afghan coats until the end of the seventies. Apart from a very brief entry on Wikipedia, I couldn't find any other relevant information online at this point. So I have included several photographs in this post to give you some idea of the timeline which demonstrates their continued popularity as a fashion item/statement over a 'six year' period, from their initial introduction in 1966 through to 1971.

It's also interesting to note that they seem to have been favoured as suitable wedding attire by the male peacock/rock stars of the era, with both David Bowie and Eric Burdon choosing to wear Afghan coats on the 'big day'. With the exception of the coats and jackets in the 1968 Eye Magazine feature below, I haven't found any other colour photographs in my personal collection of books or magazines so far, but i'll take another look when I get more time and add them in due course. In the meantime, I've photographed my own Afghan coat which I purchased in the mid 1990s, I haven't worn it in a long time but still can't bear to part with it, it's a really lovely one, in great condition too considering its age..and it is most definitely not afflicted with the curse of the aforementioned Afghan odour, otherwise it would have been offered up as a candidate to the gods of room 101 long ago. 

"You have been in Afghanistan, I perceive," said Holmes to Watson..By intricate process of deduction, Sherlock Holmes laid claim to this note-worthy fact about Dr. Watson the first time the two met. Dr Watson later recorded in his journal that he was astonished by Holmes' perception. He need not have been. Besides his tropic tan, haggard face, injured left arm, and military-medic air, all of which Holmes claimed were dead give-aways, Watson probably was wearing an Afghan coat. (Holmes' whole train of thought didn't take more than a minute which is very suspicious if Watson wasn't wearing a coat). Today, one need not sojourn in Afghanistan to possess an Afghan coat. Without risking a haggard face or injured arm, you can find an authentic assortment in this country. Afghan coats are richly embroidered on the sheepskin side : the fur is worn on the inside. (Eye Magazine - August 1968, photograph by Richard Davis).

Above: All from Mallory. Coats, $215; jacket $145. Left to right, under the coats: Peter's turtleneck, Himalaya $17; striped jeans, $7, Brick Shed House, NYC. Handcraft scarf. Candy's skirt, $35, Mallory; Crepe blouse, also Mallory, $35. Boots, Golo. Jim's paisley shirt, Michael Webb for Carlyle, $10; corduroy pants, $7, Limbo, NYC. All jewelry, Odyssey Shop, NYCI had a quick look to see what the median/mean income of the average unmarried male was in the United States circa 1968, and according to the census source, it worked out somewhere between $7,132- $8,185 per annum. So, these particular jackets as featured in Eye magazine were definitely not cheap throwaway fashion items, when you consider the fact that they cost over a weeks wage!

Of all the great post comments that I have received on the Sweet Jane blog over the years, this one from Craig Sams is still my absolute favourite:  I had visited Kabul in April of 1965, where I first saw the Afghan coats, but couldn't afford to buy one as I was travelling on a shoestring. In October of 1966 I imported a batch to London and showed them to various boutiques, including Granny Takes a Trip, Dandie Fashions, Hung on You and Clouds Have Faces. Granny Takes a Trip took a wide selection and I got a phone call from John Pearse, one of the owners (who now has a very cool fashion boutique in Meard Street in Soho, London). "I hope you've got plenty of those Afghan coats in stock, Craig, because the Beatles have just gone out the door of our shop wearing them." I ordered more but I was also in the throes of getting my macrobiotic restaurant open and was trying to concentrate on one business at a time. Most of the pictures of the Beatles were in black and white so nobody could really appreciate the detail of quality in both the color, the curing of the skins and the extremely fine silk thread embroidery. Within a few weeks no sheep between Istanbul and Kabul was safe - suddenly they were worth more for their skins than for their meat as people hastily killed them, skinned them, did machine stitched embroidery or quick hand stitching and rushed them to the UK and other countries where the market was booming. I also imported kaftans from Tunisia, shoulder bags and Khamba boots from the Tibetan refugees at Dharamsala India and silk from China that a designer called Aedan Kelly would dye in blobby psychedelic patterns. We sold a lot of patterned silk to Dandie Fashions, who made them up into men's shirts. Once my restaurant kicked off I was busy 24/7 and that was then end of my career in ethnic fashion, except that I now had a reputation for being able to get ethnic stuff. Michael Rainey of Hung on You asked me to get him Russian Army uniforms - the idea was that peaceful coexistence would be stimulated by people wearing uniforms of the enemy (this was the Cold War, remember). I met the military attaché at the Russian Embassy in Kensington Palace Gardens and he thought it was a great idea. He had to check with his superiors in Moscow, though. A firm 'nyet' came back from Moscow and that was that. You can't fight City Hall...or the Kremlin. (Craig Sams, The Sweet Jane blog, December 2012).

My own Afghan coat.


 Close-up detail of my own Afghan coat. 

Embroidery detail on the back of the coat.

Georgie Fame wearing an Afghan jacket from the Chelsea Antique Market, September 1967.


Afghan coats and waistcoats on display in the window of Dandie Fashions, 161 King's Road, 1967.


Eric Burdon and his wife Angie King after their wedding ceremony, which took place at Caxton Hall, September 1967.

Pop star Eric Burdon marries model Angie King in traditional ceremony at Caxton Hall, with a flower-power send off, followed by a wedding reception held at the Speakeasy Club. 1967.

Newly-weds David and Angie Bowie on their Wedding day at Bromley Register Office, 20th March 1970.

Bill Wyman, with his girlfriend Astrid Lundstrom and his son Stephen (who is wearing an Afghan jacket) on their way to Sweden for a skiing holiday, 31st December 1970.

Teenage pupils from Holland Park school in London get the 1971 look with Afghan coats, wide sleeved tunic shirts, basket weave bags and jeans.

All images scanned by Sweet jane from the following publications: Eye Magazine August 1968. Seventeen Magazine September 1967. Boutique London A History: King's Road to Carnaby Street by Richard Lester. Wild Animals: The Story of The Animals by Andy Blackford. David Bowie Moonage Daydream by Dave Thompson. The Rolling Stones Unseen Archives by Susan Hill. Decades of Fashion The Hulton Getty picture collection by Harriet Worsley.  Afghan Coat photographs taken by Sweet Jane.