Sunday, 31 January 2016

Les Gilets Juniors┃Elle Magazine (1969)

Les Gilets Juniors


Thousands of vests were, this year, sold with pants : long and buttoned, they camouflaged hips : co-ordinated, they suited all silhouettes. For a change, and because they are not afraid to focus on their slim torso and hips, juniors will prefer the very short, heavily patterned knit styles this winter. Turn the vest into the star and organize one of these very young tomboy style outfits around it with wool knee socks, pants, shorts and frilly skirts.

Above: Woolmark gilet in shades of blue (Agnes B. pour Limitex, 75F, chez Mouche), Pure silk blouse, finely striped (Dennet Barry). For long legs only: flannel shorts to the knees (Etam, 45F), Thick wool socks (Dépositaires Pingouin Stemm), Sunglasses (Lissac). 

Small irregular striped wool vest (Harry Lans, 105F, from Galeries Lafayette) Funny and refined, the coordinated blouse, speckled with small horses (Emmanuelle Khanh for Le Bistrot du Tricot, 98F, chez Turlututu). Buttoned pants in pure new wool (Agnes B. pour Limitex, 110F, à la Gisquette), Wool Hat (Lil), Boots with flat heels (Shop 22), Big round glasses ( Lissac).

Main photo: Cheerful little vest in pure new wool Jacquardé (Agnes B. pour Limitex, 75F, à la Gaminerie), Mini skirt in wool check, which gathers into V shaped yoke (Berluc, 89F, chez J.N.S, 3), jersey blouse (Dennet Barry).

Top: Dog Collar blouse (Boutique Berge). Kid gloves (Gants Lux). New: socks above the knee, natural wool (Dépositaires Pingouin Stemm). Varnished laced shoes with round toe (Jocelyn). Bottom: exception here - the top is Scottish, English plaid open V sweater, (Kingsbury, 85F, Au Printemps). And the skirt is replaced by the grey flannel straight legged trousers (Arvel, La Gaminerie 119F). Socks match the sweater (Kingsbury). Victorian style brown leather laced pioneer boots (Tilbury).


All images scanned for the Sweet Jane Blog from ELLE Magazine, 16th August, 1969. with thanks to Brad Jones. All photographs by Peter Knapp, original fashion editorial by Catherine Rousso for Elle. Photographs taken on location at Vèlodrome de la cipale, à Vincennes. Discover more about the origins of the Agnès B brand. Further details about the history behind the Argyle pattern. View one of my previous posts featuring the work of designer Emmanuelle Khanh and discover more about the fashion label's heritage. Read Tomboy Style: Beyond the Boundaries of Fashion by Lizzie Garrett Mettler. And finally, view some more examples of photographer Peter Knapp's work.

Monday, 18 January 2016

Bonnie┃Fashion's New Darling (1968)


Bonnie - Fashion's New Darling

 '30s style beret with long cardigan suit by Elite.


Actress Faye Dunaway, the gun-toting Bonnie Parker in Bonnie and Clyde, has already done for the beret what Bardot did for the bikini. Now the fashion world's newest Darling is the stunning inspiration for a full-blast return to '30 styles, both here and abroad. Though revivals have cropped up before it took the impact of the film to bring about a new synthesis that (as shown in Gayle Kirkpatrick's outfits $100 and $125) blends the softness and droopy fit of the '30s with the swing and legginess of the '60s.

Left; This polka-dot cocktail dress ($185) is silk georgette (a'30s fabric). It has the characteristic limp flutter of the era, but a contemporary above-the-knee hemline. Dots on stockings match dress. Right; Resort outfit ($115) -as well as the other on this page - is from a '30s-inspired collection designed in Italy by Krizia and imported by Bendel. Period mid-calf length is styled for poolside luncheon.

Left; Stripe knit outfit ($110) combines typical '30s-style cardigan with a V-necked dress. The big-brimmed hat and the crochet edging used on the neckline are also straight out of the period.  Right; Simplicity of a Depression era housedress is glorified in mid-calf length dinner dress ($650) of rickrack sequins for drop-dead chic. The little linen collar is in keeping with the tongue-in-cheek poor look.

Above; Switching roles, Bonnie becomes Clyde. She wears pin-striped gangster suit from Geoffrey Beene ($495). Clyde, too, is making an impact on the girls; a return of tough tailoring as a change from the bias softness. Faye digs both looks.

Decades away from Bonnie and Clyde, Faye has a current movie-star look in mini-dress by John Moore ($500). Her whipped up curls are a wig arrangement by Kenneth, who often does her hair. 

All images scanned by Sweet Jane from LIFE magazine January 12 1968. All photographs by Greene-Eula. Watch the original trailer for Bonnie and Clyde. Read Roger Ebert's 1967 review of the film. View the 2009 BBC Timewatch documentary about The Real Bonnie and Clyde. Discover more about Blanche Barrow. Explore images & artefacts from the Dallas Police Department Historical Records and Case Files on the Clyde Barrow Gang.  And finally, Serge Gainsbourg & Brigitte Bardot - performing Bonnie And Clyde (1968). And finally, The Trail's End, Bonnie Parker's original poetry & inspiration behind the lyrics.