Thursday, 31 December 2015

Goodbye, Hello!

                          
                                      Goodbye 2015  &  Hello 2016!
           Wishing you all a very Happy New Year & thanks for stopping by the Sweet Jane blog! xo   




                                                                                  IMAGE CREDIT
Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Carnaby Street by Tom Salter, published by M & J Hobbs 1970, illustration by Malcolm English.

Tuesday, 22 December 2015

A very moving idea for Christmas... 1967






                                                           IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS
Image scanned for the Sweet Jane blog from original BSA advertisement postcard 1967 with thanks to Brad Jones. Photographer & model uncredited. Discover more about BSA Motorcycles-the final evolution by Brad Jones published by Veloce Publishing Ltd here & also here, View some Dolly Rocker inspired gear from 1968 in one of my previous posts here, more biker inspired looks from this period here & also here. Beyond Rebellion: Fashioning the biker Jacket-an online exhibition at FIT New York here and finally, 31 biker movie trailers from 1953-1973 here.

Sunday, 29 November 2015

Bermubas de Rosy 1968








                                                                            Hair by Elrhodes


                                                          IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS
Image scanned for the Sweet Jane blog from Jours de France 17th February 1968 with thanks to Brad Jones. Hair by Elrhodes, photographer uncredited.  Read about the history of French Lingerie here, Discover more about the heritage of the Rosy Lingerie brand which began in 1947 here. A link to further information about the hairdressser Jean-Yves Elrhodes here and finally a photo of his salon in Paris here.


Tuesday, 17 November 2015

Spring Combines 1970



Spring pants are soft and sheer, like a thin tissue over the leg. They will be made up of the same limp fabric as the new, long slinky dresses., as well as from velvet, slippery satin ciré, crocheting and laced up suede. All right day and night, the year round. And look for combinations: blouses half-cached under short sleeved silk T-shirts, anchored by some sort of dripping sash or heavy, elaborate belt, and head scarves trailing over one shoulder. More rights of spring: Veronica Lake hair and low boots.


Softly cuving jersey tunic tied at the shoulder and sashed at the waist with wide-legged pants. By Giorgio di Sant' Angelo, $199.50 at Saks Fifth Avenue.



Chiffon cardigan cut bare and bathroby over pants of the same print. Lizard sandals. All by Halston. Available in the Halston boutique, Bloomingdale's, $300.



Extremely well-seamed mid-calf dress which fastens with snaps and studded belt. Worn above matching pants and black suede boots. Dress, $80; pants. $35. All designed by Luba. At Bloomingdale's.


Skin colored tunic and flimsy pants. In the background, loose chemise dress, gathered at the waist. By Gayle Kirkpatrick. Linguini strapped sandals by Capezio. Dress, $145; blouse and pants, $240. All at Lord & Taylor. 


                                        IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from New York Magazine 26 January 1970. Original editorial by Caterine Millinare. Illustrations by Barbara Nessim. Discover more about designer Gayle Kirkpatrick here, view other examples of his work in some of my previous posts here & also here. Read about the designer Giorgio di Sant' Angelo here. Visit the website of the artist Barbara Nessim here to view an amazing selection of her work from the 1960s to the present day and much more (a must see for any illustrator). View a video interview in which she discusses her work and the inspiration behind it here. Discover more about the heritage of Halston here and finally, read about the Russian designer Luba Marks here.

Sunday, 25 October 2015

Lejaby 1969

























                                                      






                                                         IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS
Image scanned for the Sweet Jane blog from Jours de France, April 26 1969, with thanks to Brad Jones. Artist uncredited. Read about the heritage of the Maison Lejaby Couture Lingerie & Swimwear brand founded in 1884 here. Discover more about the history of French Lingerie here.

Sunday, 18 October 2015

Seeing About Your Eyes 1965


Why do model girls have such lovely eyes? Because they know how to make them up. Now we're going to tell you the secrets of making eyes that everyone will notice. It doesn't matter what shape or size your eyes are - read on and discover what you don't know about making eyes into beautiful eyes....

Suggested products: Rimmel Cake Eye-Liner (1s. 9d.), Leichner White Stick Make-up (about 2s.), Gala Matte Eye Shadow (5s. 6d.), Eyelure Fake Lashes (from 9s. 6d.), Revlon Liquid Liner (9s. 6d.), Max Factor Liquid Liner (6s. 9d.), Max Factor Mascara (block 2s. 9d.), Outdoor Girl Eye Pencil (1s. 6d.).





                                                       IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE magazine issue No.20 September 1965. Photographer uncredited. Model also uncredited. Discover more about Max Factor, the pioneer of modern cosmetics here. Read a fantastic review of Max Factor: The Man Who Changed the Faces of the World by John Updike for The New Yorker here. Vintage Max Factor tutorials here. Discover more about Eugène Rimmel founder of Rimmel London here. Read about Ludwig Leichner, founder of the Leichner Theatrical Make-up brand here. And finally, something more thought provoking on the subject of Seeing About Your Eyeshere and also here, plus The Importance of Staring out the Window here.

Thursday, 8 October 2015

Tonia Advert 1971
















                                              IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS
Image scanned for the Sweet Jane blog from Jours De France, November 1971, with thanks to Brad Jones. Photographer uncredited. Advert designed by the Havas Conseil Agency. Discover more about the history of the Havas agency founded by Charles-Louis Havas in 1835 here. Read about the heritage of the Aigle footwear company founded in 1853 by Hiram Hutchinson here & also here. Discover more about Charles Goodyear, the inventor of vulcanized rubber here.

Monday, 28 September 2015

L'Homme Qui Ramassait Les Épingles 1968


This is a double page illustration from Plexus which accompanied an overview of L'Homme Qui Ramassait Les Épingles by Pierre Boulle, a short story by the author originally published as part of a collection of fictional work under the title Histories Charitable (1965), although he is probably best known for two of his earlier novels The Bridge over the River Kwai (1952) & The Planet of the Apes (1963). There is quite an amount of information about Boulle and his work online, much less so regarding the illustrator, i've searched but nothing definite has surfaced so far, unless perhaps i've somehow misread his signature? I'm pretty sure it's signed as Panos but i've included a close-up for your perusal in the final scan ...in the meantime i'll keep searching! 


































                                                   

                                         IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS
Image scanned by Sweet Jane from PLEXUS issue No. 12. 1968. Illustration by Panos (?) for an original story by Pierre Boulle. I have previously featured the work of many other Plexus illustrators, some of which you can view here & also here and via any of the associated labels at the end of this post. Read about Pierre Boulle The French spy who wrote Planet of the Apes here. A review of The Bridge on the River Kwai (film adaptation) here. A complete history of Planet of the Apes here and finally a Pierre Boulle bibliography here.

Sunday, 20 September 2015

The Aubrey Beardsley Influence ? - Alan Parry 1967


I'm quite taken with this illustration by Alan Parry for Rave Magazine, it was actually just part of a miniscule paragraph measuring around 2"x1¼'' on the editor's page announcing the 'Rave Of The Month' poster which was included in the december 1967 issue as a pull-out Christmas present to the readers. But, it caught my eye nonetheless, so i've enlarged it to take a closer look...I think what drew me in were all the very obvious Art Nouveau/Aubrey Beardsley/Glasgow Style influences which were so prevalent around this time. The finished poster is an incredible full colour psychedelic version of the design spread out over a double page, which I will scan in due course, but I think it works really well in basic black & white too. I also think that Alan Parry is fast becoming a favourite illustrator, he was a regular contributor to RAVE, as well as many other publications, but i've recently discovered that he also illustrated the Man About the House comic strip for Look-In, which has endeared him to me even more so.

         


UPDATE: 11/1/2016
Very evident Art Nouveau influences on display indeed! but not quite the Aubrey Beardsley or Glasgow Style as first suspected it would seem. By pure chance I recently happened to see an online invitation to an event taking place on New Year's Eve...the similarities between the advertisement and this particular illustration were undeniable, so I investigated a little further and found what I now believe to be the original source of inspiration in an illustration by Ethel Larcombe from 1907 on a fantastic blog named The Pictorial Arts, personally, I don't think the obvious likeness detracts from the Alan Parry poster. Ethel Larcombe is a wonderful artist and one that I wasn't previously aware of as she modestly only initialed her work, so I had some difficulty tracking her down. Therefore I would also like to say a special Thank You to Jo from Joyatri's Adventures in Vintage for filling in the blanks. You'll find further links to Ethel Larcombe & her work at the end of the page.




                                                        IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS
Image scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE magazine, December, 1967. Illustration by Alan Parry. Examples of Alan Parry's illustrations for the Man About the House comic-strip here & also here. View one of my previous posts featuring the artwork of Alan Parry here. And it would seem that i'm not the only fan of his work..here. The Aubrey Beardsley influence here. A Lecture by Alison Brown, curator for European Decorative Art at Glasgow Museums on Beardsley’s influence on the Glasgow Style here. And finally, watch Man About the House, Season 1 Episode 1, first screened on ITV 15th of August 1973 hereEthel Larcombe New Year Greeting card (1907) courtesy of The Pictorial Arts blogspot. A brief biography of Ethel Larcombe & examples of her work here plus some more examples on tumblr here.


Monday, 7 September 2015

Champion Advert 1970



Take a tip from AMA Grand National Champion Mert Lawwill - always ride with spark plugs made by Champion! Send for Champion's #1 Cycle Poster. It's 17'' x 22'' big. Printed in full color. And it's just $1.00.  CHAMPION #1, Department CP, P.O. Box 910, Toledo, Ohio 43601.



                                                       IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS
Image scanned from US CYCLE Magazine, October 1970 for the Sweet Jane blog with thanks to Brad Jones. Artist uncredited. Visit the official website of Mert Lawwill motorcycle racer here. Watch ON ANY SUNDAY the 1971 documentary on motorcycle racing featuring stars of the sport, including Mert Lawwill & film star Steve McQueen, a racer in his own right here.


Sunday, 30 August 2015

The Pop Market - A Raver's Guide to the Portobello Road Market 1966







It's just a narrow gulf of a street twisting down from the posh end at Notting Hill Gate - all antique shops and arty cottages - to the junk shops and vegetable stalls nearer Kensal Town. Nothing special during the week, you might think, but on Saturdays the joint is jumping! The Portobello Road is where ravers go to look for bargains, buy clothes, meet their friends and above all, to see and be seen. Early Saturday morning the dealers in antique clothes set up their stalls along the pavements, and the antique markets and arcades get out their stock: rows of swinging necklaces, cases of heavy rings, piles of plates and silverware, trays full of odd buttons and broken watches. By eleven o'clock it's crowded out, but not only with the trade dealers you might expect. Swinging London descends en masse into the hundred yards of narrow street to look for bargains.

It's getting to the decadent stage now. The French and Americans arrive by the taxi load to stand gawping at the capes, the scarlet jackets and the clashing mini-skirts. All just as they'd read in the Wisconsin Times or the Hooterville Gazette. Long-haired guitarists strum soulfully by the railings opposite Henekeys, one of the main pubs, and further down the street a young singer with a beard and no teeth collects money in a tattered old cap, while the swarms of photographers, who outnumber everyone else, shoot everyone that moves. Among the movers you might see Mick Jagger and Chrissie Shrimpton, or it might be John Lennon and Cynthia, or maybe The Who. There are very few pop stars who haven't bought stuff from the market.

''I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet'', purveyors of military and original Victorian gear, sells all manner of frills, furs and laces. Roger Daltrey of The Who bought some sailors white bell-bottoms there. Gary Farr of the T-Bones walked out with several American Navy tee shirts. Charlie Watts has bought jackets there and so have Ray Davies, Mick Jagger and John Lennon. But it is Eric Clapton of the Cream who is regarded as the real trend-setter, perhaps because he spends most time there. Fur coats go for five pounds down the Market. And jacket and capes go for two pounds or even thirty shillings. Long Victorian dresses vary in price from about a pound to three pounds. But in all cases, you'll get what you want cheaper if you bargain for it, and that applies especially to clothes more than jewellery. Rings and necklaces are more expensive, because their value doesn't decrease with age. Nevertheless, it's still cheaper than average, and probably the best selection of Victorian jewellery in London.

But the wildest gear is on the people; yellow coat and pink tie, silver stockings and swirling green cloak. So if you fancy joining in before it dies the unnatural death of all ''in'' places, here are a few facts about where to go, how to get there and what to look for....
FRIDAY. The junk market. A lot of real rubbish..odd china, old books and kitchen sinks. But some real finds in the way of pictures, records and the odd antique, if you have the patience to look. All day at Kensal Rise end.
SATURDAY. The antique market. Lovely antique rings and stones. Lots of period clothes, mainly nineteenth and early twentieth century, at any price from ten shillings to five pounds. Starts early morning and goes on until early evening.



Looks as though the girl above prefers antique jewellery - the market's speciality. Stones on sale tend to be onyx and agate rather than gold and diamonds, but if you fancy something more flashy, there are some fantastic copies of really old rings in very elaborate.


Wild satin shirt in gold, bound with red velvet - modelled by RAVE girl Lesley Garner - sells in ''I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet'' for thirty shillings. Clothes like this make you wonder who wore them in the first place. If half the stock is Army and Navy surplus then the other half must come from a theatrical costumier!



Detail from the illustrated map of Portobello Road by Alan Parry which accompanies the feature, be sure to click on the first image at the top of the page to view a close-up of the entire map.



Look down into the crowd at the Portobello Road Market and you might pick out someone like Eric Clapton of the Cream, seen above shopping for rings. Hasn't he got enough already?



                                                  Sailor jacket from I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet.




This couple have found what they were looking for - an American tunic at fifty shillings, and the miniest of Guard's tunics in lime green for four pounds. Victorian dresses like the one on the model can be bought at the market for anything from one to four pounds, but be careful - dresses like this show their age far more than heavy capes and jackets. Lace and feathers tend to decay with time, so inspect them before buying or your dress might fall to pieces the first time you put it on. Updated 2/9/2015: I've recently discovered the identity of the couple in this photograph, they are David Mainman and the artist Olivia Temple, you can visit Olivia's website here.


                                                                      IMAGE CREDITS
All original information & images scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE  magazine December 1966. Original editorial by Lesley Garner, Photographs by Mark Sharratt, Portobello Road Market illustration by Alan Parry. 
                                                                                 
                                                             LINKS
                                            The history of Portobello Road can be found here.
Great photos by Simos Tsapnidis of the famous Pubs Henekeys and Finches on Portobello Road. London 1966 and 1967 & much more here.   Dennis Wilson & Al Jardine of The Beach Boys shopping on Portobello road, filmed in 1966 by Peter Whitehead. Edited to accompany the Spectrum's 1967 45 release, here. And the original promo film for the Spectrum's Portobello Road single here.

Sunday, 23 August 2015

Andre 1968






                                                    IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS
Image scanned for the Sweet Jane blog from Jours de France, 23 March, 1968 with thanks to Brad Jones. Photographer uncredited. Discover more about the heritage of the Andre shoe company which was established by Albert Levy in 1900 here.


Wednesday, 19 August 2015

A & B GIRL 1964



Fashions and records...they've both got two sides. Here's the A side of fashion, flip the page and there's the B side...and Twelve steps To Loveliness.


'A' SIDE...A party-best dress for Halloween - or any other night of the year - in white net, dolled up with red velvet ribbon under the bustline, and long layered, see-through, sleeves. By Susan Small £12 1s 6d. The white satin little girl-look shoes are by Loftus, £2 19s 6d. and the ritzy bracelet comes from a range at Fenwicks of Bond Street, £1 5s.



'B' SIDE...How's this for contrast? But isn't it great! The suit, in grey flannel is just like a man's, pockets, trouser crease and all, and a half-belt across the back. But the price is girl-sized. It's £7 17s 6d. by Slimma. It's worn with over-the-ankle Chukka boots in brown suede by Saxone, £3 19s 11d. Right; 7 & 8 respectively His or her clothes? Both actually. The white-collar workers shirt is made by Her Tern in blue and white gingham. The cost £1 19s 6d. The second-skin trousers are made for men at His Clothes and cost £2 19s 6d. Heeps of girls are buying these trousers and having them shortened while they wait.



5 This is the only new dress shape since the shift. It's cut as simply as a child's smock, with long school-room sleeves. It's deceptively expensive though. Cost is £15 10s by Jane and Jane.












                                                                    IMAGE CREDITS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Rave and Hit Parade No.9 October 1964. Fashion notes by Penny Vincenzi, All photographs by Anthony Rawlinson.

                                                                                             LINKS     
                                         Some Classic Old Print Ads by  Sir Anthony Rawlinson here.

Saturday, 8 August 2015

Bata Shoe Advert 1970







                                                        IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS
Image scanned for the Sweet Jane blog from Elle Collections, 2 March, 1970 with thanks to Brad Jones. Artist uncredited. Discover the history behind the brand and much more on the excellent Bata Reminiscence and Resource Centre website here   Visit the Bata Shoe Museum here. View the Bata Museum's online exhibitions here & read an interview with Sonja Bata, founder of the Museum here.          

Wednesday, 29 July 2015

Let Colour Go To Your Head 1972

































































                                                                        IMAGE CREDITS
Image scanned by Sweet Jane from LOVING February 5th 1972, with thanks to Kirstin Sibley. Original article by Janice Collier, Hair styled by Harold Leighton, Photographer & Model uncredited.

Saturday, 25 July 2015

Beyond Biba - Barbara Hulanicki Cosmetics


I've recently photographed some examples of the Barbara Hulanicki Cosmetics range from my personal collection, which I purchased on Ebay circa 2008. The range was developed in the early 1980s and eventually launched in autumn of 1983, the decision to produce a Hulanicki range was largely influenced by the continuing success of the Biba cosmetics line that she had created in 1970 which was still available nationwide throughout Britain via Dorothy Perkins and also at Etam branches and selected chemists in the Republic of Ireland, proving unequivocally, that inspite of Big Biba's demise some 8 years previously, the popularity of the brand and the legacy of Biba was still very much alive and well. The vibrant new 1980s Hulanicki range was encased in Barbara's signature Art Deco style packaging and moderately priced, with blushers retailing at £5.85, lipsticks at £2.65 and nail varnish at £1.99. It was initally available through Top Shop & The Body Shop in the UK and H&M (known as Hennes & Mauritz at the time) in Sweden and Germany. In 1985 it launched in the USA, retailing through Macy's Department Store and Judy shops in California until 1989 when Barbara sold the cosmetics line to the L.A based investors of Ronnie Wood's nightclub Woody's On The Beach, whereafter it disappeared from view, until now....

Art deco influenced retail display unit from the Barbara Hulanicki Cosmetic range, c.1983.




Barbara Hulanicki, sketches for cosmetic colours and looks, 1983.



A selection of shades from the Barbara Hulanicki eyeshadow range, starting at the very top and moving in a clockwise direction, the colours are as follows: Pitchblack No.28; Opal No. 9; Cosmic No.8; Dallas No.27; and lastly Nocturne No.13.

Packaging detail from the Barbara Hulanicki cosmetic range 1983.



Example of a plastic carrier bag from the range featuring the brand logo.



Four mascaras from the Barbara Hulanicki cosmetic range 1983. Left to Right; Dracula No.104 (black of course,the name speaks for itself); 122 (a bright metallic jade green, this one had no specific identifying name other than the number but it may possibly have been called Goblin); Queen No.107 (a bright metallic amethyst purple); and finally, Devil No.106 (a burnished metallic red).




 Hulanicki Nail Varnish in Tremor No.32 (a burnished old gold).



                                         Radium No.3 mini blush (a very bright/neon fuschia).




                           Hulanicki 'Tremor' nail varnish No.32,  art deco influenced packaging detail.

        


My complete collection of Hulanicki Cosmetics, the two silver compact cases are empty apart from a mirror inside, sadly there is no actual product or indication of what it may have originally contained, but i'm presuming that it would have been pressed powder or perhaps a larger format blusher.

                                                     
 
                                 IMAGE CREDITS
All Hulanicki cosmetic product images photographed by Sweet Jane from my personal collection, Barbara Hulanicki illustration 1983 scanned from The Biba Years 1963-1975, Special thanks to Likrish Marchese of Barbara Hulanicki Design for personally providing me with the photograph of the cosmetics display unit and all additional information.                                                      
                                                                             
                                          LINKS
                                                  You can find Barbara Hulanicki Design here.
                                                    Barbara Hulanicki on Facebook & Twitter.
                                                  Ronnie Wood's websiteFacebook & Twitter.
                                                   My post about Biba's American debut here.
                                   A make-up tutorial with Biba girl Ingrid Boulting in 1971 here
A contemporary make-up tutorial inspired by the Biba look can be found on the Lisa Eldridge website here.             
                   
                

Thursday, 9 July 2015

The Culture Vulture 1970




















                                                                      IMAGE CREDIT
            Image scanned by Sweet Jane from New York Magazine March 9 1970. Artist uncredited.

Sunday, 28 June 2015

Knickerbocker Glory 1970





Long flimsy tunic in moss crepe by Gordon King. The tunic has a round neck, buttons down the front and also on the sleeves. Matching gauchos and turban, Black only. Approximately 13gns. Also available are knickerbockers at approximately 5gns. Sizes 10, 12 and 14 at Miss Selfridge and Fifth Avenue (all branches). Fake snake belt 25s at Fenwicks, New Bond Street, London, W1. Long coloured beads 15s by Rosita. Thick black tights by Echo. Two-tone canvas and patent lace-up shoes 69s 11d at Bata. Photo: David Stanford.



By Mary Quant, "Calamity Jane" in knitted wool, satin blouse and short suede waistcoat. Sizes 5-13 (fits up to about a 14), in purple, pink, camel, black or RAF blue. Approximately £26 7s at Peter Robinson Top Shop, Oxford Circus; Harvey Nicholls; Debenham & Freebody Phase One, Elizabeth Grey, Oldham; Darlings, Bath.



By Shelana, mauve and white Jacquard design jersey top with knickerbocker trousers. Tunic in pink or brown or white. Sizes 10-16. Approximately £11 at 2007, London and Manchester; Bentalls, Kingston, Worthing, and Ealing. Wet look cap by Edward Mann. Approximately 46s at Selfridges, Dickins & Jones (Rainwear departments). Long cream canvas boots, 6gns at Sasha. Leather mittens, approximately £3 15s at Pindisport shops. Puch ''camping'' bicycle, £32 9s. at E. Chamberlaine & Sons Ltd., 75 Kentish Town Road, London NW1. - Photo by Robin Laurance.



Long wide gauchos with matching fitted waistcoat in heavy linen. Various colours available. Sizes 8-14. Gauchos 3gns. Waistcoat £2 19s 6d. Printed silk blouse with wide sleeves and high collar £5 19s 6d. Leather shoulder bag £7 19s 6d. All at Biba, 124 Kensington High Street, London W8. Long canvas lace-up boots 7gns at Bata. - Photo by David Stanford.


By Gladrags, short battlejacket with poodle wool bodice, long jersey wool sleeves, belt and matching gauchos. Available in various colours. Sizes 7, 9, 11, 13, (fits up to 38in hip). Jacket approximately £8 10s. Gauchos £5 10s. (Not shown; plain jersey trousers 5½gns.; jersey trousers with the poodle wool design from the knee 6½gns.; zipped, belted bush jacket in poodle wool with jersey collar and cuffs £10 19s 6d; coat with jersey bodice, poodle wool skirt £17). At Harrods Way In; Debenham & Freebody Phase One; Image Bath; Ricky's, Beaconsfield; Bizarre, York. Black felt matador hat 48s. Wet-look gauntlet gloves in black or white. By Dents 30s. Both at Fenwicks, New Bond Street, London, W1. Lace-up grannie shoes 5gns. at Bata. Photo: David Stanford.


                                                                IMAGE CREDITS
All images & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from The Guardian, Tuesday August 18, 1970., with thanks to Kirstin Sibley. Photographs by Robin Laurance & David Stanford.