Tuesday, 13 May 2014

Dressing in Your Element (1967)

Dressing in Your Element 

Travellers heading for the sun can now get added mileage out of their horoscopes. An ascending interest in all things astrological has hit the fashion world. The Horoscope of Fashion currently underway in New York City at Lord & Taylor is an international Pandora's box of the occult, spilling out everything from pot holders (one per sign) to Emilio Pucci's brilliant new resort prints. When L&T asked designers to focus on the cosmos, they reacted in individual horoscopic fashion. In Florence, Pucci, a Scorpio, delved into his library of the ancients, emerged with prints from Babylonian signs. In Rome, Lydia de Crescenzo, a Gemini, fell back on Agrippa's 16th-century Strange Medical Gallery for flower symbols she embroidered on sundresses. And Cole of California's Margit Fellegi, a Leo, captured American cartoons, that suit, for swimming, people of any sign.

FIRE signs are the pioneers, the independents, the leaders of men. Ariens (March 21-April 19) are first, then Leos (July 23-August 22) and Sagittarians (November 23-December 21). They aren't afraid to stand out in a crowd, might feel an affinity for Pucci's kinetic prints (velveteen fireside dresses, $150) and Jane Bolle's dramatic plastic hairpieces. Suga of Kenneth's conjured up the four twin hairstyles

EARTH signs Taurus (April 20-May 20), Virgo (August 23-September 22), Capricorn (December 22-January 19) are logical, painstaking and discriminating, with an affinity for nature. Lydia de Roma's linens, each with embroidered flower of one sign, would appeal to earth people. The symbols shown here; a Scorpio chrysanthemum ($120), Aquarian violet ($80). Rings are Sander Golberger's.

AIR signs are the idealists of the horoscope, usually intellectual and dispassionate in judgement. At the same time, they are lively and sociable. Gemini (May 21-June 21), Librans (September 23-October 23) and Aquarians (January 20-February 18) are likely to be interested in the occult sciences, would be naturally drawn to Nicoletta de Roma's denim play dresses ($38) with astrological data on the bibs. 

WATER signs are mercurial, highly intuitive, some times perceptive to the point of being psychic. They are sensitive and emotional, often poetic and spiritual. Cancerians (June 22-July 22), Scorpions (October 24-November 22) and Pisceans (February 19-March 20) have a natural affinity for the ocean, so Cole of California's swimsuits (bikini $23, blouson $36) would fit these sea worshipper's fishing for futures.

All images scanned by Sweet Jane from LOOK magazine, November 1967. Original feature by Jo Ahern Zill. Photographed by Horn/Griner.

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