Monday, 26 May 2014

The Peter Max Funbrella | Seventeen Magazine (1970)

The Peter Max Funbrella

You'll be swingin' in the rain with this original Peter Max Funbrella―designed exclusively for Right Guard. Wild colors. Groovy designs. 100% vinyl. $7.95 value - yours for only $3.95 with proof of purchase of new Right Guard Anti-Pespirant―best spray protection against wetness a girl can buy. Use the coupon on this page―or get an order blank on the Peter Max Funbrella display where you buy Right Guard.

Image scanned by Sweet Jane from SEVENTEEN Magazine April 1970.  View an original Peter Max Funbrella over on the FIDM Museum website here.


Thursday, 22 May 2014

The Fool and Apple Boutique | Eye Magazine (1968)

The Fool and Apple Boutique

I'm pretty sure that anyone who is interested in The Fool Design Collective, will most probably have already seen all of these images of Apple boutique reproduced online, time and time again, via Tumblr and Pinterest etc. However, as striking as they are alone, I think the original article which accompanied them is more than noteworthy.  Although, it certainly sends the rose-tinted view that many of us now hold about the general attitude to life in the 1960s crashing to the ground. Unfortunately, it wasn't all peace, love and liberal attitudes, it was pretty much the same then as it is now, and always has been whenever the average man in the street is presented with something entirely new that he doesn't quite understand yet. So, lovers and haters and bigots abounded in equal measure, a particularly fine display of which you can find in the second paragraph! But, at least for a moment in time, albeit too briefly, The Fool and the Beatles tried to illuminate Baker Street in more ways than one.   


The Apple is open―psychedelamania let loose on white paint with a million rainbows in the basement. It's an extraordinary department store backed by the Beatles and created by Four designers - Simon, Marijke, Josje and Barry - called The Fool. Apple is them. Apple is the Fool, the Tarot card-figure zero-innocence; the four who stand between the Beatles and the Apple, and offer Apple to the people. Wild wizardry in the sludge of Baker Street. The building was a high, white house on a corner, and now it is jampacked with the color scene of Apple's beautiful people. Before this blaze, before the advent of the Fool, people looked at the scaffolding bruising pure white wall, and wondered, "What will they do? What will come next?" and they glimpsed the pots of paint with magical labels saying Sulphur, Marigold, Lilac, Midnight Blue, and snuck through the heavy glass door to see what was that skimming past in skintight velvet pants and Jesus hair.

Across the road, the shopkeepers gaze, gulp, think again about their own windows. " They'll cheer us up a bit." ..."It's about time we had a face-lift." ..."I must put up some of me sykerdilic material on display; we'll be getting the kids up here now." And so they do. Staid old Baker Street, home of the maiden aunt, is buzzing with wasp stripes and fluffy with feather boas as the teenies don their kneeless garb and hop to Apple. But watch the huge distrust on the street. Beige faces batten on the glass windows which are walls and windows in one. They scowl at the brown-skinned plaster dummies draped in shout-red satin. They hate at the long-haired, sweet-faced boys. Rattling London buses skid to a halt at the traffic lights outside the shop, and brown-uniformed schoolgirls jump up to catch this explosion of light. "Ooh, look at that!" There are sparkling suits of light and gypsy silks. "Do you think they're real?" "Me mum wouldn't be seen dead in a thing like that." "I wouldn't neither, it looks right daft." "But they're ever such lovely colors, aren't they?" "They're certainly nice and colorful," nods an old lady behind her. "it's good to see something colorful. I say good luck to the young people. I like to see something lively." And this from an old dressmaker, clothed herself in brown and black, envying the imagination of the young.  Up the street storms an angry man. "What do they think they're doing? It's people like them sending Britain down the drain," he screams, shuddering with impotent rage. "They're unhealthy, they're evil, they're bad!" But his only alternative was the drab coat and the drab routine and the drab thoughts that he had spun around him, so he went away quietly when a middle-aged woman attacked him for being bigoted.

"Art is for everyone," says Simon, "not just for a handful of people who speculate with money." So, true to his word, he sells his paintings as posters for ten shillings (10/-) each, and Marijke sells her intricate designs for the same, and Josje makes fantasy clothes for practical prices. And the Fool bring their magic to the masses. There's a wooden hand offered in greeting as you move to open the door. If you don't look out it will swing back and grab you in the guts. Watch how you treat that hand―it's the one that feeds you the enchanted Apple, and maybe you'll never be the same again. Swing into a goldfish bowl, and disregard the street stares. Crushed blackberry Fool carpet and zombies zooming in sparkling Indian costume. Plastic plants, polyethylene chairs and gluey dahlias rioting in the three-tiered gilded fountain rearing out from the stars and the moon and the sun. Stars spurt from the navy-blue ceiling. Rainbows split across the walls. Beatles blare, and sometimes the sitar soothes. Alexis, the electronic genius, has wrought his spell and the lights jump with the music. Plaster Fools cavort in the window while the navy-breasted passerby stand transfixed. Oh Apple, are you as good as you look? Can you keep your core intact? Well. Just to look that good is cool. Just to have turned on the West End fuzz and the taxi driver who said hey-why-don't-you-light-it-all-night and the lorry driver who went home to tell his family he'd seen a psychedelic supermarket spring into being on Baker Street. Just to stop people in their deadly tracks and wake their dying minds and change Baker Street from it's tomb-like drab to show them, to give them the opportunity to see, to help them reach it just for one moment. The startled moment of awareness before the objection and hostility come flooding in. Just to do that is OK.

Above: The outside of the shop on Baker Street. Marijke says: "The outside of the shop is the symbol of all the things that are happening inside the building―the color and the music and the painting and the clothes we put out into the grey mass of the world."

The Peacock Room - for meditation and for trying on clothes.


The Fool at home, Marijke and Josje. Marijke says: "Color is an expression of light. It all lies in evolution. It goes from black to light; the gray lies in-between. Josje says: "We want our clothes to be practical as well as beautiful."

Apple Boutique interior, 1968. 


The entrance: Treat that hand kindly. It's the one that feeds you the enchanted Apple.


Ed and Cheryl frolic on Baker Street. Ed has on Liberty print velvet J.C. jacket and Nantwich satin trousers. *Unfortunately the correct details about Cheryl's outfit in this photograph were omitted in the original magazine article and mistakingly replaced with the item details for the outfit on the left in the photograph below.


Sam, the girl in the foreground wears Turkish Delight in yellow and orange satin. Ed and Cheryl in their regalia, peek out from behind. Cheryl wears crepe satin Daisy blouse, brocade flipster vest, moire velvet maxi-skirt and organza headdress.

  The Fool's painted Bentley.

 Jenny Boyd in Apple Boutique dress.

All images scanned by Sweet Jane from EYE Magazine April 1968. All photographs by Lester Waldman. All original content by Danae Brook for Eye Magazine, April 1968. View some of my other Apple Boutique related posts about The Fool including a feature from Rave magazine Apple Clothing - Apple Boutique; plus a feature on The Fool Design Collective from 1967. Visit Marijke Koger-Dunham's Website. Discover more about Yosha Fashion Amsterdam, you can also visit Barry Finch's youtube channel, and Simon Posthuma's website. And finally, view Jenny Boyd ‘Staring Into The Face Of God’  a filmed interview with Jenny, by Iain McNay for Conscious TV. 

Thursday, 15 May 2014

Become a Lovable Undercolour Agent | Petticoat Magazine (1967)



Oh! Oh! 7 exciting colours have just entered your secret life! Cool colours..zingy colours. Here is Lovable's wonderful new colour co-ordinates concept. In Hot Pink, Cherry, Tangerine, Lemon, Apple, Turquoise, and Forget-me-not.

Left: Lightweight Lycra girdle match-mated with all-nylon bra in luscious 'Hot Pink'. Centre: Same whisper-weight Lycra in colourful 'Tangerine' panty-girdle, Matching nylon bra. Right: This team of Lycra panty-girdle and nylon bra in 'Apple Green', suspenders are detachable when you wear your panty-hose or stay-up stockings. Bras 13/11 Girdles 15/11 Panty-Girdles 19/11.  

Image & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from PETTICOAT magazine, September 1967.

Tuesday, 13 May 2014

Dressing in Your Element (1967)

Dressing in Your Element 

Travellers heading for the sun can now get added mileage out of their horoscopes. An ascending interest in all things astrological has hit the fashion world. The Horoscope of Fashion currently underway in New York City at Lord & Taylor is an international Pandora's box of the occult, spilling out everything from pot holders (one per sign) to Emilio Pucci's brilliant new resort prints. When L&T asked designers to focus on the cosmos, they reacted in individual horoscopic fashion. In Florence, Pucci, a Scorpio, delved into his library of the ancients, emerged with prints from Babylonian signs. In Rome, Lydia de Crescenzo, a Gemini, fell back on Agrippa's 16th-century Strange Medical Gallery for flower symbols she embroidered on sundresses. And Cole of California's Margit Fellegi, a Leo, captured American cartoons, that suit, for swimming, people of any sign.

FIRE signs are the pioneers, the independents, the leaders of men. Ariens (March 21-April 19) are first, then Leos (July 23-August 22) and Sagittarians (November 23-December 21). They aren't afraid to stand out in a crowd, might feel an affinity for Pucci's kinetic prints (velveteen fireside dresses, $150) and Jane Bolle's dramatic plastic hairpieces. Suga of Kenneth's conjured up the four twin hairstyles

EARTH signs Taurus (April 20-May 20), Virgo (August 23-September 22), Capricorn (December 22-January 19) are logical, painstaking and discriminating, with an affinity for nature. Lydia de Roma's linens, each with embroidered flower of one sign, would appeal to earth people. The symbols shown here; a Scorpio chrysanthemum ($120), Aquarian violet ($80). Rings are Sander Golberger's.

AIR signs are the idealists of the horoscope, usually intellectual and dispassionate in judgement. At the same time, they are lively and sociable. Gemini (May 21-June 21), Librans (September 23-October 23) and Aquarians (January 20-February 18) are likely to be interested in the occult sciences, would be naturally drawn to Nicoletta de Roma's denim play dresses ($38) with astrological data on the bibs. 

WATER signs are mercurial, highly intuitive, some times perceptive to the point of being psychic. They are sensitive and emotional, often poetic and spiritual. Cancerians (June 22-July 22), Scorpions (October 24-November 22) and Pisceans (February 19-March 20) have a natural affinity for the ocean, so Cole of California's swimsuits (bikini $23, blouson $36) would fit these sea worshipper's fishing for futures.

All images scanned by Sweet Jane from LOOK magazine, November 1967. Original feature by Jo Ahern Zill. Photographed by Horn/Griner.

Saturday, 10 May 2014

Knockout Fashion Shoes | Petticoat Magazine (1970)

Knockout Fashion Shoes


Norvic top trends..get up and go shoes that love the lively life you lead! Town-smart styles with squared-off toes and chunky heels. Stylish with straps, flaps and buckles. Smooth and subtle shades. Norvic Top Trends...put a lively girl like you feet ahead of the fashion scene!

Top left: Jenny May; Blue, beige, light tan, red, from 52/-. Top Right: Sarah Jane; Light tan, from 57/-. Bottom LeftShirley Anne; Beige/light tan, blue/white, teak/rust, beige/teak, From 52/-. Bottom Right: Betty Lou; Black, chestnut, From57/-.

 Image and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from Petticoat Magazine, April 1970.


Tuesday, 6 May 2014

Old England Watches | Twen Magazine (1967)


Unfortunately, my attempts to decipher this Twen magazine feature and convert it from German into some form of cohesive english proved to be both frustrating and tiresome―to the point where I almost felt the need for an afternoon snooze coming on halfway through―the usually reliable Google Translate service...has let me down badly this time! But nevertheless, there are still some really great examples of the oversized Old England watches designed by Richard Loftus which were produced by Accurist―the watch-making company established by his parents in 1946. After graduating from Cambridge with a degree in Economics, Loftus spent a year at Stanford University in the United States before returning back home to Britain, whereupon in 1965, he created and developed the brand that was to cause a revolution in the highly traditional watch trade―successfully launching it worldwide two years later. The watches were designed as a fun, low cost, unisex 'fashion' range, aimed at the 13-35 age group, but according to Loftus they were predominantly favoured by girls in their late teens and early twenties. However, his effective use of pop design was so in tune with current trends that they soon became a much sought-after item beyond these social parameters and even made their way onto the wrists of royalty and the jet set, with both Princess Anne and the actress Elizabeth Taylor also reported to have been seen sporting variations from the rangeTaylor photographed wearing an oversized black-faced hexagonal watch mounted on a black band, and Princess Anne snapped with a shocking-pink watch on her royal wrist!

Already in demand throughout the UK and Europe, with an Old England showroom in the United States as early as April 1967, the brand quickly became an international success and would go on to sell in 40 countries worldwide, accounting for around 20 percent of Accurist's business―turning Loftus into a tycoon in due course, also winning him the title of 'Young Exporter of the Year' at just 24, and subsequently elevating the status of the watch from traditional timepiece to fashion statement piece! From what I have gathered through research, the production timeline seems to have run from 1965 to approximately 1971, with the pinnacle of its success taking place in the 1967/68 period. So, I've also included the original Old England Look Book from these particular years in this post to give you some indication of the full range. In addition to wristwatches, there were ring watches, medallion watches, several oversized belt watch designs and a gift pack watch­­­ set with four interchangeable wristbands, all of which have now become highly sought-after collectibles among 1960s/1970s enthusiasts.  In recent times there were about 30 designs readily available again when Accurist relaunched Old England in February 2011, however, there doesn't seem to have been much activity regarding the brand since early 2012 and all of the items are currently out of stock on the company's website, so I'm assuming at this point that it has once more ceased production.









   Interview with Old England watch designer Richard Loftus (1968).


 LOOK BOOK 1967/68

Old England 'Flower Power' watch designed by Richard Loftus, 1967.



Contestants from the International Cover Girl Contest, on the roof garden of the "Old England Watches" office block in London, 1968.                   

All images scanned by Sweet Jane from TWEN July 1967. All photographs by Francis R. Hoff. Except for the Old England Look Book which is courtesy of  The House of Accurist. Discover more about the invention and evolution of the wristwatch. View another collection of vintage Old England Watches, courtesy of Andrew Sandoval cometothesunshine.podomatic.comAnd finally, links to some of my other posts about Pop Fashion Design: Pop Style (1965); The Picture of Fashion (1972); Pop Fashion (1971); Geometric Pop Design's by John Kloss (1966); John Stephen of Carnaby Street - Womenswear; Rave Magazine How We Made Princess Anne a Mod (1966).  And finally, my book review of Mr Freedom Tommy Roberts British Design Hero by Paul Gorman.