Thursday, 27 June 2013

London Boutique Fashion 1970






Mini dress in yellow satin from Carnaby Girl.

                                   


Romantic satin blouse (5th Avenue) purple hat from Biba.

                                

Printed cotton voile mini dress from Bus Stop.


Multicoloured cotton patchwork maxi-dresses from The Universal Witness, 167 Fulham Road.


                                                         
                                                                 PHOTO CREDITS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Jours de France, August, 1970. Original article by Jean-Francois Bergery. Photographer Luc Fournol.

Friday, 21 June 2013

Native Funk & Flash - An Emerging Folk Art 1974



Very pleased to hear that Native Funk & Flash by Alexandra Jacopetti and Jerry Wainwright which was first published in 1974 is soon to be available again, it had been out of print for some time and has subsequently become quite the collectors item amongst 1960s/1970s counterculture enthusiasts, its reputation growing steadily over the past number of years as the occasional glimpse of the contents began to appear on the web and also in various reference books about these decades, which of course sent the price soaring upwards as it became increasingly difficult to find an original print copy. The book itself is an amazing collection of contemporary folk art originating mainly from the San Francisco Bay area, compiled by the author from her personal point of view and beautifully photographed by Jerry Wainwright. Not only is it inspirational as a visual reference book which would be beneficial to any fashion/textile designer or artist, but it is also an invaluable social document which defines the ethos of this incredibly creative period in American culture from within the epicentre of the scene. The newly revised edition which includes previously unseen photographs and updates on some of the artists is officially republished on the 5/7/2013, further details can be found through the links at the end of the page.




                               
                                    "Homage to Tomales Bay." Crocheted cape by Judith Weston.






Work in progress, a skirt panel by Mary Ann Schildknecht, who was taught to embroider by nuns while she was serving a two-year jail sentence in Milan on a hashish smuggling charge.






Jewelry designers Alejandro Maté and Lee Brooks who worked under the moniker of Alex & Lee, eventually moved beyond the emerging folk art scene into the mainstream fashion arena while still maintaining the integrity of their original design concept. Their work was sold in Saks Fifth Avenue and also made the pages of  Harper's Bazaar.





                                                           
                                                                   Dress by Laurel Burch.
                                                       




                                  
                                     Designer Billy Bowers in gold kid with monkey and zebra fur.














                                                                Jewelry by Laurel Burch.                                                                               





                                        Lizzie modelling another outfit designed by Billy Bowers.






Hand painted silk dress by Penelope Fried. Shoes by Apple Cobbler (otherwise known as Mickey McGowan) who fashioned his boots, shoes and sandals from old fabrics, brocades, Chinese satins and canvas embellished with glass beads or embroidery and air brushed or photo-screened cottons. The soles were made of a coloured rubber similar to foam.


                                                               IMAGE CREDITS 
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from my original copy of  Native Funk and Flash - An Emerging Folk Art by Alexandra Jacopetti, photographs by Jerry Wainwright. Scrimshaw Press 1974. Second printing (revised), September, 1974.


                                                                             LINKS
                The official FB page for Alexandra Jacopetti's Native Funk & Flash can be found here.
                       Native Funk and Flash can be ordered directly from the publisher here.
                                       Bill Bowers Art-Wear Jacket Gallery can be found here.
                                                  The Alex and Lee website can be found here.
                                                  The Laurel Burch website can be found here.


Saturday, 15 June 2013

Betsey Johnson's Mirror Dress 1966





Designer Betsey Johnson fitting her mirror dress on spanish-born model Valma. The fabric, which was developed for Betsey by Coating Products Inc. of Englewood New Jersey, is a silvered chrome, laminated onto a soft canvas or flannel liner.  The dress ($35) from Paraphernalia, is accessorised with a silver helmet which snaps under the chin and chunky heeled tap shoes. 

                                                             
                                                   IMAGE CREDITS
Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Fashion-The Century Of The Designer, 1900-1999 by Charlotte Seeling. Dress by Betsey Johnson, April 1966.

    

Wednesday, 12 June 2013

The New Vamp 1968





If you are old enough to remember bright red lipstick, then you are to old to wear it, according to most beauty experts. They claim it is too aging, too period-piece, rather like the campy trivia of the '30s which are shown at left. For teen-agers like Jane Hitchcock (above), however, crimson lips and nails are a whole new discovery, either in combination with a bonnie beret for a nostalgic bow, or for a swinging accent to a thoroughly late '60s costume.




Jane, 15, updates lipstick and nail polish with a fuzzy hippie hairdo by Kenneth, a mini-smock (Gayle Kirkpatrick, $70) and "monster" thong sandals by Bernardo. She does not wear pencilled brow and heavy eyeshadow of Jean Harlow, whose face decorates pillows behind her.
                                                   
                                                                 IMAGE CREDITS
All images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from LIFE magazine may 31st 1968. Photographs by Greene-Eula.

Saturday, 8 June 2013

Vintage Illustration: John Alcorn - Morgan Press Inc.











                                                                     IMAGE CREDITS

Image scanned by Sweet Jane from my personal collection of Party Invitation Cards, illustration by John Alcorn, published by Morgan Press Inc. You can view another example of his work from this period in one of my previous posts here.

Thursday, 6 June 2013

The Maxi Look from Biba 1970










A la porte de L'Amirauté , un maxi-manteau en crepe de chine saumon, avec un pantalon assorti from Biba, 124 Kensington High Street.












                               Deux maxi-robes en satin crème et saumon from Biba, 124 Kensington High Street.         

           
                                                              
                                                                         IMAGE CREDITS
All images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from Jours De France, 18 Aout 1970. Article by Jean-Francois Bergery, photographs by Luc Fournol.

Saturday, 1 June 2013

The Name is the Game: Rudi Gernreich 1968

     





                                                                The Name Is the Game 

Once, fashionable ladies kept their dressmakers' names secret but now they wear them on their heads, backs, and even toes. In the three outfits above - that photographer Bill Bell designed as props for an upcoming avant-garde movie called Recess - the name has become an integral part of the costume. The girl at left in Rudi Gernreich's jersey tunic and tights ($78) dangles scarf on which his name stands out in red. Adolfo's sailor beret ($65) bears his name on the band, and less anyone fail to get the message, the evening coat ($270) is imprinted with B.H Wragge's  name no less than 650 times.




Girl above wears two yards of silk scarf almost covered with four-inch block letters spelling Chester Weinberg's first name ($28).





Scarf, draped gypsy-fashion on a girl's head (Glentex $12) contrasts designer's name, Rudi Gernreich, with the no-sense-making letters in the rest of the print pattern.

                                         
                                                               
                                                                     IMAGE CREDITS
Images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from LIFE magazine September 13th 1968. Photographs by Bill Bell.