Thursday, 28 February 2013

Dandy Fashion: Les Assassins du Bodygraph - lancent le prêt - à - choquer 1967 (part one)



Part one of a fantastic editorial originally published in 1967, which pays homage to those who were determined to step out in true 'peacock style' regardless of the general conformity in menswear that still surrounded them at the time. The original article is in French, which unfortunately I don't understand...so I shall refrain from doing the language an injustice by attempting to translate the introduction to the piece or any of the quotes from Baudelaire via google translate. Thankfully, the photographs are strong enough to speak for themselves, there are definitely some superb examples of dandy finery on display here!




                                                      Gérard Silvi, modéliste, habillé par Dean.




              
                                          Jean Manuel Guyader, art director, habillé par Renoma.





                                                       Gilles Rimbault, peintre, Habillé par Cardin.





                                                                       Pablo Mesejean, peintre.

                                                                          IMAGE CREDITS
All images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from PLEXUS issue No.9 1967. All Photographs by  Chantal Wolf.

Monday, 25 February 2013

Today's Raves: Kleptomania 22 Carnaby Street (1968)

Some charming illustrations from a regular RAVE Magazine feature which was called 'Today's Raves' - this is where you read first about new ideas and gimmicks on the rave scene!  There's always lots of snippets of information about the latest trends, new boutiques etc plus some pop and movie gossip. In this particular issue they discuss the fact that Carol White star of the film 'Poor Cow' and the television production 'Cathy Come Home' headed straight to Biba in Kensington Church Street when she was choosing the outfits for her latest film role in "I'll Never Forget what's is'name" so instead of  the bill running into thousands of pounds, her entire wardrobe for the film cost a mere £80!  I actually own a copy of it on dvd, and she does look fantastic,  I'll take some screen shots and post them here at some point in the future. In the meantime I'm quite taken with these illustrations, unfortunately they're uncredited, but it's always good to find something from Tommy Roberts' Kleptomania boutique. You can read more about Kleptomania in one of my previous posts here.

















                                                                







                                      
                                                                IMAGE CREDITS

                         All  images scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE Magazine February 1968.
                       

Sunday, 24 February 2013

Vintage Advert: John Bates 1967




Pop-popular dresses by John Bates at Jean Varon in pure new wool crepe. Halter-neck 'Flash' is about 9 guineas. 'Tiller' is about £10. 19s. 6d.










                              

                                                               IMAGE CREDITS

          All images scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE magazine extra fashion supplement April 1967.


Saturday, 23 February 2013

Vintage Advert: Miss Disc & The Yardbirds 1966





She's the chick among the Yardbirds. She goes for groups. They go for her. She has her very own group too. Named after her. Miss Disc. A very 'in' group indeed. Led by the most sensational, fab, new kind of hair spray. Tames her hair when it's wild. But just enough. No more. Great. Everything under control. Yet breathtakingly alive! Miss Disc has you kind of group for your kind of person. Get together. Soon!  



                                                                  IMAGE CREDITS
                   Image and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE Magazine, December 1966.

Monday, 18 February 2013

Biba Artist & Interior Designer Antony Little



Antony Little, artist and interior designer, first became associated with Biba in 1965 through his connection with Julie Hodges, whom Barbara Hulanicki had commissioned to create a wallpaper design for her first shop in Abingdon Road. Upon moving to her second Biba premises in march of 1966, she once again hired the two designers to decorate the interior. Prior to this, Little had painted the facade of Michael Rainey's 'Hung On You' boutique in Cale Street, using the beautifully fluid Art Nouveau style which had been experiencing a major revival at this point in time. The continuation of this influence can also be seen in the window design that he created for Biba's Kensington Church Street shop, he painted the name above it in gold lettering on a black background, then decorated each window with gold leaf circles which served as portholes, surrounding them with an expanse of black Art Nouveau swirls. The facade proved to be incredibly popular, attracting not only the curiosity of every passer-by but also the attention of many photographers, who liked to use the windows as an interesting background feature in photo shoots. An adaptation of the design also became the new Biba logo, adorning bags and other printed materials. Although he continued to work with Biba in an interior design capacity on further projects, by 1968 Little had co-founded a wallpaper and fabric company with his brother in-law Peter Osborne. Together they opened a small showroom in Chelsea and subsequently produced some of the most striking hand-printed designs of the decade. For those of you with a penchant for interior design from this period and for those who would like to decorate accordingly, it will undoubtedly be welcome news that the firm of Osborne & Little are still active and that quite a lot of their early work is currently available again. *However, in 2006, after spending 38 years designing wallpapers and fabric, Antony Little sold his entire interest in the business to his partner in order to pursue other areas such as furniture design, painting and various architectural projects and has no connection with the firm now although his name remains as a memento of the business that they built together.



Shop  manager Eleanor Powell, wearing a suit from Biba, the photograph was taken across the road from the second Biba outlet which was located at 19-21 Kensington Church Street.





                                Antony Little and his wife Jenny at their London home circa 1970. 
              


 
Aubrey Beardsley inspired illustration by Antony Little which sold in Biba, Kensington Church St.



                               Hung On You, 22 Cale street. Window design by Antony Little 1966.



The interior of Hung On You, 22 Cale Street. A blow-up of a fin de siècle style poster design for the shop by Antony Little decorates the wall in the background, the backdrop was also used on the cover of LIFE magazine in 1966, the same issue featured an article about the rise of the 'Swinging Revolution' in London.



Close up of the exterior of Biba, Empire House, 19-21 Kensington Church Street, W.8. Nouveau window design detail by Antony Little.



Shop manager Kim Wilmot photographed in the window seat of Biba in Kensington Church Street, one of the many photographs which used Antony Little's Nouveau window design as a backdrop.



                                 * Illustration by Antony Little, which sold in Biba  circa 1967.




Part of the conservatory area in the third Biba shop, at 124-126 Kensington High Street designed by Antony Little using stained glass windows which had been reclaimed from St Paul's school. (1969).



                                Size, colour and price labels designed by Antony Little for Biba.
     




Osborne & Little's 'Chinese Dragon' wallpaper, designed in 1968 by Antony Little, inspired by the Royal Pavillion in Brighton, you can view a fantastic example of the paper as it was intended to be seen here. And, if you have fallen in love with it, you will be happy to know that the paper is available again in six different colourways from various stockists, along with some other incredible wallpaper designs and matching textiles from this period, as part of their Vintage Collection


                            Packaging from stockings, with logo designed by Antony Little for Biba.




Yet another example of the Antony Little Nouveau window design used to enhance a photograph,  on this occasion by Frank Habicht.



                                   *Biba diary/noteook, 1967. Logo designed by Antony Little.


                                                               IMAGE CREDITS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from the following publications: The Biba Experience by Alwyn W Turner, 70s Style & Design by Dominic Lutyens & Kirsty Hislop, Boutique a 60s cultural phenomenon by Marnie Fogg, Look Magazine 1967 photograph by Douglas Kirkland and In the Sixties by Frank Habicht. *except for photo No.8 which is courtesy of the Alwyn Turner website via Antony Little. *update 6/4/2015 Biba diary/notebook scan from The Biba Years 1963-1975.

                                                                             LINKS
                                           Antony Little: Bearsdley, Biba & Beyond here
                                         The Osborne & Little Website can be found here
                          The Osborne & Little Vintage Collection of wallpaper can be found here
              The Restaurant & Champagne Bar owned by Biba's former interior designer Julie Hodges,
                                 which  has been  in business since 1969 can be found here.   
        *Update 26/2/2015: Listen to a radio interview with Julie Hodges on the Jo Good Show here.
                                 the interview begins halfway through the show at approx 01:06          

Monday, 11 February 2013

Design for living 1968


Some interesting attitudes and opinions in this piece regarding what was considered to be suitable attire when attending a job interview in the midst of 'Swinging Britain'. Tom Salter of Gear in Carnaby Street definitely wins the the commentary prize hands-down. You can also view Tom's book about Carnaby Street, illustrated by Malcolm English in one of my previous posts here.











                                                                      IMAGE CREDITS
Image and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from the Sunday Times Magazine January 1968, original article by Jill Tweedy, illustrations by Alan Manham.

Thursday, 7 February 2013

Male Plumage: Dandyism has returned! Wear Ruffles! Buy yourself a purse (1970)



The peacock days are coming back. A man in a bright leather suit or snakeskin coat might still rate a hard stare, or an approving one, but he would no longer cause consternation in the city streets. Paradoxically, most designers credit the distinctly un-dandy hippies with making possible the return to dandyism, simply by proving that a fellow can wear almost any outlandish costume in public - if he has the nerve. Designers in London and Rome, working from the far-out, far-gone glories of Restoration styles, gave their imagination rein. The old promise that ordinary man is finally to be liberated from dull clothing has flowered brilliantly in outfits of every fabric and color. Men's boutiques now do a brisk trade in necklaces, purses and earrings. Health spas find a demand among business and professional men for mud packs, hair tinting and skin creams - all once the exclusive province of women. Most men find the new styles extreme - not to mention expensive - but so long as dandies are as attractive to women as they seem to be, the "Peacock Revolution" - illustrated here by partisans wearing their own versions of the fashion-will continue to spread it's feathers.




Top left: In a photograph hand-tinted by a technique popular in dandier days. Los Angeles musician and tennis teacher Larry Piller shows off his leather Captain America suit.  Centre: A customer in Carlo Pallazi's Rome Salon gets a fitting for a handmade suit in a setting of chandeliers, tiled floors and antique furniture. Top Right: Tokyo's Kansai Yamamoto, a 26 year-old fashion designer, wears a beaded choker and an appliquéd T-shirt with his snakeskin suit.


Above: In a London shop called Granny Takes a Trip, a young man inspects a $60 velvet brocade jacket.
  






Top Left: Best-selling French novelist Francois-Marie Banier has on a velvet suit designed by Cardin. Bottom Left: As women learned years ago, proper accessories are crucial. Thus, hats for men are staging a comeback, particularly in Rome, where Remo Argenti's shop does a brisk business in straws. Centre: In the U.S., body jewelry, like the necklace above, sells well. So do the inexpensive but flashy rings. Top Right: Franco Piscardi, who is 17 and works as an automobile mechanic, wears a nylon print shirt he bought for $5 in a Rome flea market. Bottom Right: Because the new tight pants are likely to have no pockets, many Italian men carry keys and money in purses like the one above.



Above: In a London boutique, a potential customer tries on boots, including a multi-starred design made popular by rock singer Joe cocker.



Top Left: New York's Eric Cruz, 19, a student in fashion design, wears an Afro hairdo, a hooded African dashiki and a necklace from Kenya made of seed pods and animal teeth.  Bottom Left: In Manhattan, a man seeking just the right complexion to go with his Italian outfit tests a skin base at the grooming bar in Bloomingdale's.  Bottom Right: Businessmen from Los Angeles relax in a muscle toning whirlpool bath at a health club called The Sanctuary and above that, At La Costa, an expensive spa near San Diego, a patron has a skin tightening mint compound applied to his face by a woman attendant. Top Right: Canadian Paul Stooshnoff bought his Yves Saint Laurent safari shirt in Paris and his leather pants in London, where he is directing a movie.

Above: Hairdressers at Sweeney's in London give herbal shampoos and razor haircuts, then use hand driers to accentuate any natural curl.




Top Left: Giorgio Sciommer, 43, a hairdresser and boutique owner from Rome, wears $200 worth of silk evening suit, and a silk jersey shirt with foulard scarf, all by Palazzi.  Centre: (main picture) While in Rome a businessman hurries to an appointment, carrying a small purse. Top Right: French photographer Patrice Calmettes festoons his 18th Century Afghanistan wedding tunic with several necklaces, pendants and an ornate Greek belt.  Bottom Right: A man in an upholstery-patterned coat ambles down a New York street.












Above: The new fashions are not exactly ubiquitous, but they are spreading fast. On London's King's Road, a fellow with an *ice cream cone appliquéd on his back strolls with his girl. 



                                                                      IMAGE CREDIT
All images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from LIFE Magazine, September 1970. Photographs by Enrico Sarsini. *Although the purple satin jacket with the appliqué design was not credited in the original article, I have it on very good authority that it came from Mr Freedom and that the leather patchwork/star design boots are from Granny Takes a Trip. 

Tuesday, 5 February 2013

Illustration - Eye Candy - John Alcorn.




Yet another great illustration by John Alcorn, this is one of the many party invitation cards which he designed for Morgan Press, Inc. I've managed to collect quite a few of them, measuring 3½" x 5¼" they were sold in packs of ten along with envelopes and originally cost $1.00. You can view another example of one of these cards in a previous post here.



                                                                  IMAGE CREDIT
Image scanned by Sweet Jane from my personal collection of John Alcorn Party Invitation Cards published by Morgan Press Inc.

                                      

Monday, 4 February 2013

The British Boutique Boom 1965 (Part 2)

As promised, this is the second part of the  RAVE  magazine  'British Boutique Boom' editorial which I first posted about a couple of weeks ago. You can find my original post here.




                                                                           ADAM  W.1.

29 Kingly Street, London W.1. - Owned by Mr Stanley Adams who designs boy's gear clothes that girls buy, too. Reasonably priced gear exclusive to Adam. Our choice is a pair of tweed Courreges inspired trousers with tweedy blue shirt. 79s. 6d, and 49s. 6d.




                                                                           TOPGEAR
         
135 King's Road, London, S.W.3 - Owned by model Pat Booth and hat designer James Wedge. Fairly expensive but really terrific gear. Our choice is crepe trousers by Foale and Tuffin, 6½ gns., Terrific hats designed by James Wedge and some way-out stuff by R.C.A students. It is a tiny slip of a boutique but packed with shoes, hats, bags, suits and dresses beneath it's striking bullseye canopy.




                                                        PALISADES  
   
26 Ganton Street, London, W.1. - Owned by Paulene Fordham. Sells lots of pop art gear at all prices. Some of the clothes are exclusive to them; others are bought from the fashion houses. Our choice is a culotte dress in printed cotton, £8 8s., full of badges with "I like  Boys" and "Superman" written on them; space-age hats and a terrific old 1930s Juke Box that really works!



                                                                   
                                                                         THE SHOP

47 Radnor Walk, London, S.W.3 - Owned by photographer Terence Donovan and designer Maurice Jeffery. Inexpensive exclusive gear. Our choice (exclusive to RAVE) is this black and white crepe dress, 4gns. The Shop is known for it's terrific trouser suits in black and white prints, costing £6. 10s: matching hats and bags that they do are also a favourite of the 'in' crowd. There is a terrific wart-hog skull in the dressing room.


                                              

                                                                   PHOTO CREDITS
All images and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE magazine, issue No. 20, September 1965. Photographs by P.L. James, Fashion Notes by Trilby Lane, Fashion Sketches by Alan Parry.
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