Friday, 21 June 2013

Native Funk & Flash - An Emerging Folk Art (1974)



I was very pleased to hear that Native Funk & Flash by Alexandra Jacopetti and Jerry Wainwright, which was first published in 1974 is soon to be available again!  It had been out of print for some time and subsequently became quite the collectors item amongst 1960s and 1970s counterculture enthusiasts, its reputation growing steadily over the past number of years as the occasional glimpse of the contents began to appear around the web, and also in various reference books about these decades...which of course sent the price soaring upwards as it became increasingly difficult to find an original print copy. The book itself is an amazing collection of contemporary folk art from the period, originating mainly from the San Francisco Bay area, compiled by the author from her personal point of view and beautifully photographed by Jerry Wainwright. Not only is it inspirational as a visual reference book, which would be beneficial to any fashion/textile designer or artist, but it is also an invaluable social document which defines the ethos of this incredibly creative period in American culture from within the epicentre of the scene. The newly revised edition which includes previously unseen photographs and updates on some of the artists is officially republished on the 5/7/2013. Further details can be found through the links at the end of the page.




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                                         "Homage to Tomales Bay." Crocheted cape by Judith Weston.




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Work in progress, a skirt panel by Mary Ann Schildknecht, who was taught to embroider by nuns while she was serving a two-year jail sentence in Milan on a hashish smuggling charge.




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                                             Hand -Embroidered top by by Mary Ann Schildknecht. 




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Jewelry designers Alejandro Maté and Lee Brooks who worked under the moniker of Alex & Lee, would eventually move beyond the emerging folk art scene into the mainstream fashion arena, while still maintaining the integrity of their original design concept. Their work was sold in Saks Fifth Avenue and also made the pages of  Harper's Bazaar.




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                                                                        Dress by Laurel Burch.
                                                       



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                                           Designer Billy Bowers in gold kid with monkey and zebra fur.




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       A patchwork & applique leather stage outfit created by Patti Towle for Stoneground singer Lynne Hughes.




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                                                                    Jewelry by Laurel Burch.                                                                               



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                                              Lizzie modelling another outfit designed by Billy Bowers.




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Hand painted silk dress by Penelope Fried. Shoes by Apple Cobbler (otherwise known as Mickey McGowan) who fashioned his boots, shoes and sandals from old fabrics, brocades, Chinese satins and canvas embellished with glass beads or embroidery and air brushed or photo-screened cottons. The soles were made of a coloured rubber similar to foam.


                                                    IMAGE CREDITS &  LINKS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from my original copy of  Native Funk and Flash - An Emerging Folk Art by Alexandra Jacopetti, all photographs by Jerry Wainwright, published by Scrimshaw Press - Second printing (revised) September, 1974. The official FaceBook page for Alexandra Jacopetti's newly revised 2013 edition of Native Funk & Flash can be found here. Native Funk and Flash can be ordered directly from the publisher hereBill Bowers Art-Wear Jacket Gallery can be found hereThe Alex and Lee website can be found hereThe Laurel Burch website can be found here.
                                       


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