Thursday, 28 February 2013

Dandy Fashion | Les Assassins du Bodygraph - lancent le prêt - à - choquer | Plexus (1967)


 lancent le prêt - à - choquer

A fantastic editorial originally published in 1967, which pays homage to those who were determined to step out in true 'peacock style' regardless of the general conformity in menswear that still surrounded them at the time, even though the revolution in men's fashion was well underway. The original article is in French, so, I shall refrain from doing the language an injustice by attempting to translate the introduction to the piece and particularly any of the quotes from Baudelaire or François de La Rochefoucauld via Google Translate. Thankfully, the photographs are strong enough to speak for themselves, there are definitely some superb examples of dandy finery on display here!

Gérard Silvi, modéliste, habillé par Dean.


Jean Manuel Guyader, art director, habillé par Renoma. 


Gilles Rimbault, peintre, habillé par Cardin. 


    Pablo Mesejean, peintre. 


 Thierry Garrel, étudiant en sociologie, habillé par Lipps


 Sacha Briquet, Comédien. 


Christian Besnais, illustrateur, habillé par Sophie Bolack. 

All images by scanned by Sweet Jane from an original fashion feature in PLEXUS - Issue No.9 1967. All Photographs by  Chantal Wolf. You'll find more examples of Dandy Fashion and Peacock Style from the period in some of my previous posts as follow: The Swinging Revolution (1966), Jess Down - English Boy ltd Model & Artist (1969), Male Plumage (1968), Mr Fish of Clifford St (1968) and New Plumes in the Peacock's Tail (1968). 

Monday, 25 February 2013

Today's Raves | Kleptomania 22 Carnaby Street | Rave Magazine (1968)



Some charming illustrations from a regular RAVE Magazine feature which was called 'Today's Raves'―this is where you read first about new ideas and gimmicks on the rave scene!  There's always lots of snippets of information about the latest trends, new boutiques etc, plus some pop and movie gossip. In this particular issue they discuss the fact that Carol White star of the film 'Poor Cow' and the television production 'Cathy Come Home' headed straight to Biba in Kensington Church Street when she was choosing the outfits for her latest film role in "I'll Never Forget what's is'name" so instead of  the bill running into thousands of pounds, her entire wardrobe for the film cost a mere £80!  I actually own a copy of the film on dvd, and she does look fantastic, so  I'll take some screen shots and post them here at some point in the future. In the meantime I'm quite taken with these illustrations, unfortunately they're uncredited, but it's always good to find something from Tommy Roberts' Kleptomania boutique. You can read more about Kleptomania in one of my previous posts here.


All images scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE Magazine February 1968.

Sunday, 24 February 2013

Woolmark puts the bang! in happenings | John Bates | Rave Magazine (1967)

John Bates &

Woolmark puts the bang! in happenings.

Go-Go. Everything goes with a bang when you're head to toes in Woolmark. Softness. Slinky Fit. You name it. Woolmark's got it. Pop-popular dresses by John Bates at Jean Varon in pure new wool crepe. Halter-neck 'Flash' is about 9 guineas. 'Tiller' is about £10. 19s. 6d.

Pop-popular dresses by John Bates at Jean Varon in pure new wool crepe. Halter-neck 'Flash' is about 9 guineas. 'Tiller' is about £10. 19s. 6d.

Halter-neck 'Flash' in pure new wool crepe by John Bates at Jean Varon is about 9 guineas.

Left: Halter-neck 'Flash' in pure new wool crepe is about 9 guineas. Right: 'Tiller' is about £10. 19s. 6d., by John Bates at Jean Varon.

All images scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE magazine extra fashion supplement April 1967.

Saturday, 23 February 2013

Miss Disc & The Yardbirds┃Rave Magazine (1966)

 Miss Disc & The Yardbirds


She's the chick among the Yardbirds. She goes for groups. They go for her. She has her very own group too. Named after her. Miss Disc. A very 'in' group indeed. Led by the most sensational, fab, new kind of hair spray. Tames her hair when it's wild. But just enough. No more. Great. Everything under control. Yet breathtakingly alive! Miss Disc has your kind of group for your kind of person. Get together. Soon! 

Image scanned by Sweet Jane from RAVE Magazine, December 1966.

Monday, 18 February 2013

Antony Little | Biba Artist & Interior Designer


Biba Artist & Interior Designer 

Antony Little, artist and interior designer, first became associated with Biba in 1965 through his connection with Julie Hodgess, whom Barbara Hulanicki had commissioned to create a wallpaper design for her first shop in Abingdon Road. Upon moving to the second Biba premises in March of 1966, she once again hired the two designers to transform the interior. Prior to this, Little had painted the facade of Michael Rainey's 'Hung On You' boutique at 22 Cale Street, using the beautifully fluid Art Nouveau style which underwent a major revival at this point in time. The continuation of this influence can also be seen in the window design he created for Biba's new Kensington Church Street boutique―upon which he painted the name above the shop in gold lettering on a black background, then decorated each of the shop's three windows with gold leaf circles which served as the only portholes, surrounding them with an expanse of opaque black Art Nouveau swirls.

The facade proved to be incredibly popular, attracting not only the curiosity of every passer-by but also the attention of many photographers who liked to use the window design as an interesting background feature or 'frame' in photo shoots. An adaptation of the black and gold Art Nouveau-inspired design also became the new Biba logo, adorning bags and other printed materials. Although he continued to work with Biba in an interior design capacity on further projects, by 1968 Antony Little had co-founded a wallpaper and fabric company with his brother in-law Peter Osborne. They opened a small showroom in Chelsea and subsequently produced some of the most striking hand-printed wallpaper designs of the decade.

For those of you with a penchant for interior design from this period and for those who would like to decorate accordingly, it will undoubtedly be welcome news that the firm of Osborne & Little are still active and that quite a lot of their early work is currently available again via their Vintage Collection. However, in 2006, after spending 38 years designing wallpapers and fabric, Antony Little sold his entire interest in the business to his partner in order to pursue other areas of interest such as furniture design, painting and various architectural projects and has no active connection with the firm now
although his name still remains as a memento of the business that they built together.

Eleanor Powell Biba
Shop manager Eleanor Powell, wearing a suit from Biba, the photograph was taken across the road from the second Biba outlet which was located at 19-21 Kensington Church Street.

Antony Little and his wife Jenny at their London home circa 1970. 

One of the Aubrey Beardsley inspired illustrations by Antony Little which was sold through Biba, Kensington Church St.

Hung On You, 22 Cale street. Window design by Antony Little, 1966.

The interior of Hung On You, 22 Cale Street. A blow-up of a fin de siècle style poster design for the shop by Antony Little decorates the wall in the background. The backdrop was also featured on the cover of LIFE magazine in 1966, along with an eight page report on the continued rise and rise of the revolution in menswear in London, called the 'Swinging Revolution'. *Note: Unfortunately all in the above photograph remain unidentified at this point, except for Trinidadian-born designer Christopher Lynch (standing).  

A close up of the exterior at Biba, Empire House, 19-21 Kensington Church Street, W.8. Art Nouveau-inspired window design detail by Antony Little. Photograph by Douglas Kirkland , 1967.

Antony Little's original design drawings for the exterior of Biba at 19-21 Kensington Church Street. Work on paper, January, 1966.

Shop manager Kim Wilmot sitting on the window seat at Biba in Kensington Church Street, one of the many photographs which used Antony Little's Art Nouveau-inspired window design as a backdrop.

Another Illustration by Antony Little which sold through Biba, circa 1967.

Part of the conservatory area in the third Biba shop, at 124-126 Kensington High Street designed by Antony Little using stained glass windows which had been reclaimed from St Paul's school, (1969).

Size, colour and price labels designed by Antony Little for Biba.

Osborne & Little's 'Chinese Dragon' wallpaper, designed in 1968 by Antony Little, inspired by the Royal Pavilion in Brighton.  You can view a fantastic example of the paper as it was intended to be seen here, and, if you have fallen in love with it, you will be happy to know that the paper is available again in six different colourways from various stockists, along with some other incredible wallpaper designs and matching textiles from this period, as part of their Limited Edition Vintage Collection

Packaging from stockings, with logo designed by Antony Little for Biba.

Yet another example of the Antony Little Art Nouveau-inspired Biba window design used to frame a subject―on this occasion by photographer Frank Habicht.

The cover of a Biba diary/notebook, 1967. The first Biba 'branded' product. Logo designed by Antony Little.


All images scanned by Sweet Jane from the following publications: The Biba Experience by Alwyn W Turner; 70s Style & Design by Dominic Lutyens & Kirsty Hislop; Boutique A 60s Cultural Phenomenon by Marnie Fogg. A close-up of the exterior at Biba - photograph by Douglas Kirkland Look Magazine November 1967, and In the Sixties by Frank Habicht. Antony Little at home with his wife Jenny (1970) Photographed by Tim Street-Porter. *Except for photo No.8 which is courtesy of the Alwyn Turner Website via Antony Little. The Biba diary/notebook scan is from The Biba Years 1963-1975. View more examples of Antony Little's artwork via Beardsley, Biba & Beyond and take a look through his window designs at Biba Kensington Church Street (1966), and Biba London's Mini Mecca  19-24 Kensington Church Street (1967). Visit The Osborne & Little Website. Some recommended reading 'Inside the establishment's wild wallpaper purveyor' 50 Years of Osborne & Little. And finally, visit Julie's Restaurant & Champagne Bar―owned by the former interior designer Julie Hodgess which has been in business since 1969, *Update 26/2/2015: You'll find a radio interview with Julie Hodges on the Jo Good Show available for a limited period via BBC Radio London. And finally, Whatever Happened to Christopher Lynch? 

Monday, 11 February 2013

Design for living (1968)

Some interesting attitudes and opinions in this piece regarding what was considered as suitable attire when attending a job interview in the midst of 'Swinging London'. Tom Salter of Gear in Carnaby Street definitely wins the commentary prize hands-down! You can also view Tom's book about Carnaby Street, illustrated by Malcolm English in one of my previous posts here.

Image and original text scanned by Sweet Jane from the Sunday Times Magazine January 1968, original article by Jill Tweedy, illustrations by Alan Manham.

Thursday, 7 February 2013

Male Plumage | Dandyism has returned! Wear Ruffles! Buy yourself a purse (1970)

Male Plumage

Dandyism has returned! 

The peacock days are coming back. A man in a bright leather suit or snakeskin coat might still rate a hard stare, or an approving one, but he would no longer cause consternation in the city streets. Paradoxically, most designers credit the distinctly un-dandy hippies with making possible the return to dandyism, simply by proving that a fellow can wear almost any outlandish costume in public - if he has the nerve. Designers in London and Rome, working from the far-out, far-gone glories of Restoration styles, gave their imagination rein. The old promise that ordinary man is finally to be liberated from dull clothing has flowered brilliantly in outfits of every fabric and color. Men's boutiques now do a brisk trade in necklaces, purses and earrings. Health spas find a demand among business and professional men for mud packs, hair tinting and skin creams - all once the exclusive province of women. Most men find the new styles extreme - not to mention expensive - but so long as dandies are as attractive to women as they seem to be, the "Peacock Revolution" - illustrated here by partisans wearing their own versions of the fashion-will continue to spread it's feathers.

Top left: In a photograph hand-tinted by a technique popular in dandier days. Los Angeles musician and tennis teacher Larry Piller shows off his leather Captain America suit.  Centre: A customer in Carlo Pallazi's Rome Salon gets a fitting for a handmade suit in a setting of chandeliers, tiled floors and antique furniture. Top Right: Tokyo's Kansai Yamamoto, a 26 year-old fashion designer, wears a beaded choker and an appliquéd T-shirt with his snakeskin suit.

Above: In a London shop called Granny Takes a Trip, a young man inspects a $60 velvet brocade jacket.

Top Left: Best-selling French novelist Francois-Marie Banier has on a velvet suit designed by Cardin. Bottom Left: As women learned years ago, proper accessories are crucial. Thus, hats for men are staging a comeback, particularly in Rome, where Remo Argenti's shop does a brisk business in straws. Centre: In the U.S., body jewelry, like the necklace above, sells well. So do the inexpensive but flashy rings. Top Right: Franco Piscardi, who is 17 and works as an automobile mechanic, wears a nylon print shirt he bought for $5 in a Rome flea market. Bottom Right: Because the new tight pants are likely to have no pockets, many Italian men carry keys and money in purses like the one above.

Above: In a London boutique, a potential customer tries on boots, including a multi-starred design made popular by rock singer Joe cocker.

Top Left: New York's Eric Cruz, 19, a student in fashion design, wears an Afro hairdo, a hooded African dashiki and a necklace from Kenya made of seed pods and animal teeth. Bottom Left: In Manhattan, a man seeking just the right complexion to go with his Italian outfit tests a skin base at the grooming bar in Bloomingdales.  Bottom Right: Businessmen from Los Angeles relax in a muscle toning whirlpool bath at a health club called The Sanctuary and above that, At La Costa, an expensive spa near San Diego, a patron has a skin tightening mint compound applied to his face by a woman attendant. Top Right: Canadian Paul Stooshnoff bought his Yves Saint Laurent safari shirt in Paris and his leather pants in London, where he is directing a movie.

Above: Hairdressers at Sweeney's in London give herbal shampoos and razor haircuts, then use hand driers to accentuate any natural curl.

Top Left: Giorgio Sciommer, 43, a hairdresser and boutique owner from Rome, wears $200 worth of silk evening suit, and a silk jersey shirt with foulard scarf, all by Palazzi.  Centre: (main picture) While in Rome a businessman hurries to an appointment, carrying a small purse. Top Right: French photographer Patrice Calmettes festoons his 18th Century Afghanistan wedding tunic with several necklaces, pendants and an ornate Greek belt.  Bottom Right: A man in an upholstery-patterned coat ambles down a New York street.

King's Road 1970s
Above: The new fashions are not exactly ubiquitous, but they are spreading fast. On London's King's Road, a fellow with an *ice cream cone appliquéd on his back strolls with his girl. 

All images scanned by Sweet Jane from an original editorial for LIFE Magazine, September 1970. All photographs by Enrico Sarsini. Note: Although the purple satin jacket with the appliqué design was not credited in the original article, I have it on very good authority that it came from Mr Freedom and that the leather patchwork/star design boots are from Granny Takes a Trip. A wealth of information about the label and shop can be found on the Official Granny Takes a Trip Facebook Group

Tuesday, 5 February 2013

John Alcorn Illustration┃Morgan Press Inc. (1968)

John Alcorn

Morgan Press Inc. 

Yet another great illustration by John Alcorn, this is one of the many party invitation cards from the range which he designed for Morgan Press, Inc. I've managed to collect quite a few of them, they were sold in packs of ten along with envelopes, measuring 3½" x 5¼", and originally cost $1.00. You can view another example of one of these cards in a previous post here.

Image scanned by Sweet Jane from my personal collection of Party Invitation cards, designed and illustrated by John Alcorn for Morgan Press Inc.

Monday, 4 February 2013

The British Boutique Boom | Part Two | Rave Magazine (1965)



As promised, this is the second part of the RAVE Magazine 'British Boutique Boom' editorial which I first posted about a couple of weeks ago. You can find my original post here.


 ADAM  W.1.
29 Kingly Street, London W.1.  Owned by Mr Stanley Adams who designs boy's gear clothes that girls buy, too. Reasonably priced gear exclusive to Adam. Our choice is a pair of tweed Courreges inspired trousers with tweedy blue shirt. 79s. 6d, and 49s. 6d.

135 King's Road, London, S.W.3. Owned by model Pat Booth and hat designer James Wedge. Fairly expensive but really terrific gear. Our choice is crepe trousers by Foale and Tuffin, 6½ gns., Terrific hats designed by James Wedge and some way-out stuff by R.C.A students. It is a tiny slip of a boutique but packed with shoes, hats, bags, suits and dresses beneath it's striking bullseye canopy.

26 Ganton Street, London, W.1. Owned by Paulene Fordham. Sells lots of pop art gear at all prices. Some of the clothes are exclusive to them; others are bought from the fashion houses. Our choice is a culotte dress in printed cotton, £8 8s., full of badges with "I like  Boys" and "Superman" written on them; space-age hats and a terrific old 1930s Juke Box that really works!

47 Radnor Walk, London, S.W.3. Owned by photographer Terence Donovan and designer Maurice Jeffery. Inexpensive exclusive gear. Our choice (exclusive to RAVE) is this black and white crepe dress, 4gns. The Shop is known for it's terrific trouser suits in black and white prints, costing £6. 10s: matching hats and bags that they do are also a favourite of the 'in' crowd. There is a terrific wart-hog skull in the dressing room.

All images scanned by Sweet Jane from an original feature in RAVE magazine, issue No. 20, September 1965. Photographs by P.L. James,  Fashion Notes by Trilby Lane,  Fashion Sketches by Alan Parry.