Tuesday, 26 June 2012

Dandy Fashion | Beginning of the Rainbow | Mr Fish (1968)


After a century under suspicion, colour in men's clothes has lost it's bohemian connotations and men are moving back into women's rainbow world.

I've had this picture of Michael Fish for quite some time, looking every inch the quintessential sixties dandy―as indeed he was! This particular photograph was scanned from a 1960s source book but it's always good to know where the original came from, along with the finer details of course! It's an outtake from a Daily Telegraph Magazine fashion editorial published in April 1968, which was about the use of colour finally making its way back into British menswear after an extremely long absence. The article was the second in a series by the magazine on the changes taking place in British men's wardrobes, you can view the first one featuring Terence Stamp in one of my previous posts here. It's also interesting to note that it was written by Geoffrey Aquilina-Ross, the author of  The Day of the Peacock - Style for Men 1963-1973 which was published in 2011.

Colour is coming back into men's fashion. Gone is the foreigner's idea, held for a hundred years, that all British men look like yards of tweed surrounded by thick fog. Of course in the 18th and early 19th centuries men were often dressed in such dazzling displays of colour that their women were put in the shade. Viscount Malborn, for instance, must have caused a sensation when he attended the King's Birthday Drawing Room of 1794 in "a purple stripe and green spot spring velvet coat and breeches and white silk waistcoat curiously embroidered in coloured silk and festoons and the vest embroidered as the coat in mosaic all over the body". Naturally this was pure fancy dress; others of the same era believed that true elegance was somewhat quieter.

However, a little later, in Victorian times, sober colours suitable to the humourless responsibilities of the Empire returned in force. The only dashes of levity allowed were the touches of velvet and magnificence of the military uniform, unmatched today by most dress uniform or by the standard Khaki, navy or air-force blues, no matter how much gold braid is added. It is no wonder that Victorian uniforms found their way into second hand shops and were worn by the more adventurous last summer.

The military trend of 1967 courtesy of I Was Lord Kitchener's Valet.

Men in general, in Britain in particular, continued to dress in a restrained and sober fashion until the late fifties. There were perennial pinstripes, black-greys and browns, and a bit of tweedy camouflage in the country. The only true colours to be seen were garish ties, fluorescent overalls on building sites, and a touch of devilish colour in a cummerbund with a dinner jacket. But today the puritans are running. Even if you do not want to look like a rainbow from head to toe, you can still add excitement with a sari silk handkerchief or vivid shirt.

Some hippy clothes are certainly beautiful, but the uncontrolled mix of brocades, velvets and flowers usually look like gilded fancy dress costumes. There have always been minority groups-perhaps poets, actors, and writers-who have appeared in peacock fashion, but they were always regarded as rather shocking. The reason was that, until recently, flamboyance usually had homosexual connections. Now all good designers are using colour, and all the leading shops and stores are stocking the clothes. Here are some, not particularly flamboyant, but certainly colourful. This is not a suggestion for a total transformation to wild colours, just a change to a new way of approaching elegance

Michael Fish is the director and designer of his shop Mr Fish. On the stairs of the Royal Opera House, Covent Garden, away from the crush of the crush of the bar, he wears a purple silk cord tunic jacket lavishly embroidered with black, slim and tight-fitting, 75gns. Purple poplin roll-neck shirt, 7gns. All from Mr Fish, 17 Clifford Street, London W1.

Simon Dee, taking a break from his television show. Above, he wears a rubberised raincoat, shaped like a pared-down riding mac, £9 10s, from Hawkes of Saville Row. Wide-brimmed velour hat, 6 gns, from Herbert Johnson, Bond Street, W1.

Corin Redgrave is in The Charge of the Light Brigade, and later this year will be seen with Monica Vitti in Girl with a Pistol and with Michael Caine and Anthony Quinn in The Magus. At home with his wife, Deirdre, and children, Luke and Jemima, he wears co-ordinated green: a shetland sweater, crew-necked and tighter-fitting than usual, £4 15s, and cord trousers cut like straight-leg jeans, £7 10s. Both in many colours at Just Men, 9 Tryon Street, SW3. The Liberty print shirt is from their shirt shop, Just Men 116 King's Road SW3.

All images scanned by Sweet Jane from The Sixties Source Book A Visual Reference To The Style Of A Decade by Nigel Cawthorne - images (1) & (2), and (3, 4, 5) from The Daily Telegraph Magazine, April 10th, 1968, original editorial by Geoffrey Aquilina-Ross, all photographs by David Franklin.

Sunday, 24 June 2012

Sisters share everything...almost! | Nova Magazine (1966)


I buy my Acrilan dress designed by Marlborough. She buys her Acrilan dress designed by Marlborough. We both look great. Because the Marlborough cut is always great. If we want to swap, the answer is 'no.' We're not mean about most things, but Acrilan brings out primitive possessive feelings. It's so soft. So yours. You want to keep Acrilan all to yourself alone.

Marlborough: Style No. 1362. Yellow Orange dress. Sizes 10-16. about £7.12s.6. Style No. 1348. Yellow dress. Sizes 10-16. about £6.19.6. Marlborough Dresses, 20 Margaret Street, W.1.

Image & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from Nova, September 1966.

Thursday, 21 June 2012

$$$$$ Billion Dollar Look | Seventeen Magazine (1967)

$$$$$ Billion Dollar Look!
Billion dollar look is the latest bit of moonshine-gleaming, glittering, slithery, star-studded stunners planned to add the glow of neon-bright fantasy to your fall night life.

Up, up and away in an aviator jacket! The zip, pockets, quilting are regulation. Strictly fantasy: the platnium sheen of DuPont nylon with Dacron fiberfill (Travis Mills). Naman; about $40. The pared―away skimmer beneath is rayon panne velvet (Chardon Marche). Judy Gibbs; about $35. Bandolinos shoes, Adolfo II helmet. Tights: Bewitching.

Image & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from Seventeen Magazine, September 1967. Photographer Carmen Schiavone.

Wednesday, 20 June 2012

Thursday, 14 June 2012

Yardley of London | Cellophanes (1969)


The Look to change your life liquidy CELLOPHANES lipcolors, so water-clear...glissy... you can Shine Thru, See-Thru, Kiss Thru without the lipstick barrier. The once-in-a-lifetime..it's great- to- be- alive- time BEAUTYBREAK that makes everything else look flat. That's that. The first clear colors. Sheerer than sheer - you shine right thru. Thinnier than thin - color youself new. So incredibly liquidy-you never felt anything like this before. New Yardley Cellophanes: closer to your lips than anything but his kisses. New Yardley Cellophanes nailcolors: closer to your nails than anything but his touch(?). By Yardley, of course.

 Image & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from 60s All American Ads, published by Taschen.

Wednesday, 13 June 2012

Revlon: The Year of Wild Frosted Wines! (1966)

The Year of Wild Frosted Wines!



A whole new (heavenly!) concept-in-color..muted, mauvey, soft-and-smokey lipshades. Low-key, luscious and loaded with frost! These are the elegant off-beats moving in now, changing the moods of mouths (and the total feel of fashion!) as no lipsticks have done in a decade. Soft but bolder. All smoke and smoulder. Dusky. Dazzling. Delicious.



 Image scanned by Sweet Jane from 60s All American Ads by Taschen  

Friday, 8 June 2012

Dandy Fashion | Terence Stamp (1968)

New Plumes in the Peacock's tail

'New Plumes in the Peacock's Tail' originally published by The Daily Telegraph Magazine in April of 1968, was the magazine's first editorial in a new series on men's clothing. Sadly, I don't currently own this actual issue as it is an extremely rare copy, however, I have managed to piece most of it together from extracts which have been featured in various 1960s fashion reference books. The cover shot of Terence Stamp by Hans Feurer is without a doubt my absolute favourite photograph. Terence is wearing a custom made, fitted, double breasted suit in black barathea with edge trimming on the lapels and pockets (you can see the design detail more accurately in the second photograph). The suit was made by his long time friend Doug Hayward, who, by all accounts was not only an extremely talented tailor but also an incredibly likeable and interesting character.  His personal client list included many well known high profile celebrities, but you may be even more familiar with his work than you realise through his costume design for cinema, particularly with the suits that he created for Steve McQueen's role in The Thomas Crown Affair (1968) and for Michael Caine in The Italian Job (1969). GQ published an extensive feature about his tailoring career in February of this year which you can read online here, and I have also included a short filmed interview about Doug, recorded at his premises in Mount Street by Finch's Quarterly Review, featuring contributions from Terence Stamp, as well as his long-time assistant Audie Charles. *UPDATE: I have since acquired an original copy of this issue of this Daily Telegraph magazine, so I will publish the complete article in due course..watch this space as they say!

Sweet Jane blog, 1960s Male Peacock Fashion, Terence Stamp 1960s Tailoring

Terence Stamp in tight black barathea suit, made to measure, 70gns, at Doug Hayward. It's double-breasted jacket has wide lapels edged with braiding. Hayward is seated in the background. Photograph by Hans Feurer.


Doug Hayward the Tailor as told by Terence Stamp. from Tom Stubbs on VimeoDoug Hayward stories: An interview with Audie Charles and Terence Stamp at Doug's premises on Mount Street, filmed by Finch's Quartely Review in 2010.      

Sweet Jane blog 1960s Male Peacock Style
Another photograph of Terence wearing the Doug Hayward double breasted barathea suit, obviously part of the same Daily Telegraph Magazine editorial or pehaps an outtake from the photo shoot, but I scanned this photograph from the Sixties Source Book by Nigel Cawthorne.

1960s, Patrick Proctor, male peacock style,
Patrick Procktor, artist, always appeared in dashing wide-brimmed hats with tailored suits. In Bond Street hatters Herbert Johnson, his choice was red velvet. Daily Telegraph magazine, 5 april 1968. photograph: Hans Feurer.

Sweet Jane blog 1960s Mr Fish Tailor, Male Peacock Style,
In the cutting rooms at Mr Fish, director Barry Sainsbury with Christopher Lynch, stylist. Sainsbury's embroidered brocade evening jacket was 65 gns to order. Slim and double-breasted with low buttons and wide lapels, it was worn with a rollneck evening shirt. Daily Telegraph Magazine, 5 April 1968. Photograph: Hans Feurer.

All images scanned by Sweet Jane from The Day of the Peacock-Style for Men 1963-1973 Geoffrey Aquilina Ross and Sixties Source Book A Visual Reference To The Style of A Decade by Nigel Cawthorne. Photographs by Hans Feurer,