Thursday, 5 January 2012

Biba's American Debut 1971



There are three copies of From A to Biba by Barbara Hulanicki in the Sweet Jane household (two paperback and one hardback edition) and each of them have been read cover to cover over the years. Actually, i've read this book so many times now that i've lost count of precisely how many at this stage. Over the past year or so i've been thinking a lot about chapter seven and page 120 in particular, which takes us up to the year 1970. At this point in time Barbara and her husband Fitz had begun to successfully launch the Biba Cosmetics range abroad, but they had yet to conquer the USA. As Barbara herself says "it's a very tough market to break into and you really have to wait for your opportunity" and that opportunity eventually came knocking in the form of the influential Seventeen Magazine editor Rosemary McMurtney, who approached the couple in London and suggested that they should start to sell their clothes in America. She said that if they managed the distribution themselves she would do a feature on them in the magazine which had a circulation of several million copies per month, however, they didn't want to become just wholesalers as they felt it would be bad for their image,  instead they agreed that they would make up some exclusive Biba designs and sell the patterns through the McCalls pattern catalogue along with some specially designed Biba fabrics by Tootal which could be bought at Macy's department store. Another reason why this chapter has intrigued me for such a long time is particularly due to the fact that Barbara also mentions that the clothes were photographed by Sarah Moon in a marvellous 1920s round tower in the Au Printemps store in Paris. So, after a lot of searching online, I finally found a copy of the Seventeen magazine issue in december and bought it for myself as a christmas present... and here it is, 41 years later almost to the day - Biba's american debut. Happy 2012 everyone, hope it's a great one!











Wide Eyed Biba doll, plays a softgirl game with flowery innocence. She's midi-pretty as you please in a button-upper with puff and cuff sleevery. Cotton broadcloth; about $2.40 a yard. Fabrics by Tootal for Biba. All fashions from McCall's pattern 2746. The baubles are real antiques.


Deco-rous mididress, above left, flips a shorter skirt and stars full-blown sleeves above deep six-button cuffs. McCall's pattern 2747. Flow gently, sweet blouson, right, on a tidy midi with a twenties glow; collar points to loopy buttons, super sleevery. McCall's pattern 2725 (choker included).


Tenderly, Two Ways, Biba serves up a blush of rosy print. The sheer pour of shirtwaist billows its sleeves, streams a bow-up collar and stops midi way. Giving cover, the crispest of short-sleeved vestcoats (solos as a dress too). Shirt-waist of cotton voile, about $4.50 a yard. Floppy fedora: McCall's pattern 2728.


London Luv's, far left, are a sweetheart-scoop jacket with pouf sleeves and peplum, and a softskirt caught up in midi mania. The dusted rose cotton satin is about $3.75 a yard. McCall's pattern 2725. Fitting and proper, right, this Biba slink-suit belts a semi-safari longtop and skims on a great midi mate; printed in powdery plum. McCall's pattern 2728.


Duo too, reclining above, takes the same top-part start and finishes in pants with their fair share of flare. This scatter pattern, mainly navy. McCall's pattern 2728, of viscose rayon crepe; about $4.50 a yard. All fabrics are by Tootal for Biba.




Rosy bouquet, left, is a blooming maxi beauty! Tie-on capelet and choker are part and parcel of the pattern. Lissome Lilac, right, shows more sheer finery, this with Empire airs: soft bodice gatherings, dramatic neckline and ruffled, puffed sleeves. Both cotton voile; about $4 a yard. McCall's pattern 2747.

                                   IMAGE CREDIT                    
All  Images and original content scanned by Sweet Jane from the following publications - From A to Biba by Barbara Hulanicki & Seventeen Magazine January 1971, Photographs by Sarah Moon.


6 comments:

  1. Ohhh wow, this is such a dream!! Thank you for sharing!

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  2. I had a Biba outfit...67-68 I think. sage and navy striped jersey mini jumpsuit....

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  3. Great timing... I fell asleep just last night with my book by my side, dreaming of Big Biba...

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  4. My first party dress was purchased at Biba in 1971. I still have the beaded evening bag I bought there to match. Sadly, not the dress. Thanks for this!

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    1. Hi Wendy, thanks a mil for the comment, it's great that you actually had the opportunity to shop at Biba, i've only visited it through my magazine collection from the 60s and 70s. There's some more original Biba images on here, if you click on any of the links at the end of this post it'll take you to them, and there's also an amazing blog run by one of the illustrators who worked for Biba, which I think you'll really enjoy. She's called Kasia Charko, she has some really rare images and great stories about her time there,it's a fantastic read! This is her web address. http://kasiacharko.wordpress.com/about/

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