Monday, 31 October 2011

Rave Magazine Winter Fashion 1968

                                Look like a real dyed bunny? This cosy coat is, in fact, fur fabric!
                                And it's a real startler for brunettes! From Alexon Youngset, 16gns

          A smart, military style for this luxurious trouser suit in red wool with red mongolian lamb jacket,
          super buckle belt and hood. By Mansfields, 41gns. Black boots by Dolcis, 8gns.

             Bunny looking more like a jail-bird for this chevron design, zip-up coat in beige and white.
             By Goodkind Furs, 31gns. Beige leather boots by Dolcis, 8 gns. And the hat? ....
             Borrowed from a Russian taxi driver!

                                Madly extravagant, a real fox fur coat by Rosenberg Furs, 80gns.

                     Double-breasted with a difference-this coat has luggage type fastening!
                     In simulated black fur, by Alexon Youngset, 16gns. Black boots called "Riding"
                     by Dolcis, 8gns.

                           Cuddly fake fur coat with matching gaiters (not shown). By Kashmoor,
                           coat 22gns., gaiters 1½ gns.

                                                                PHOTO CREDITS
                  All images & original text scanned by Sweet Jane  from Rave Magazine november 1968

Friday, 28 October 2011

Vintage advert: Coty Originals - Betsey Johnson 1967

                         Body Paint by Coty Originals..Dress by Betsey Johnson for Paraphernalia

                                                                      IMAGE CREDIT 
                                    Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Seventeen Magazine, July 1967.

Thursday, 27 October 2011

Vintage Advert - Vidal Sassoon 1969


                                                Tights by Berkshire, Hair by Vidal Sassoon

                                                              IMAGE CREDITS

                                      Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Flair Magazine 1969 

Thursday, 20 October 2011

Rave Magazine 1964

                                                                Issue No. 8 September 1964

                                                                Issue No. 10 November 1964

                                                                   Issue No. 9 October 1964

                                                                      Issue No. 6  July 1964

                                                                    IMAGE CREDITS
                               All images scanned by Sweet Jane from my personal collection of RAVE.

Wednesday, 12 October 2011

New York's Young Design Scene 1967

A fantastic editorial originally published in 1967, introducing upcoming design talent from New York fashion and art students, and also featuring amazing use of infrared photography by Barry Kaplan.
The stars and stripes outfit in the third photograph has been a particular favourite of mine for many years, I had previously seen it used as a design reference in a couple of 1960s fashion source books, however, there was never any credit given to the designer, so I couldn't believe my luck when I purchased this issue of LIFE a few months ago, it's great to be able to finally put a name to its creator. Apparently in reality (without the use of infrared film) the outfit is actually a patriotic red, white and blue! Everyone included in this article had great potential, as a fellow designer, I would like to think that they all went on to have successful careers in fashion, i'd love to see more of their work and know what became of them after it was was published... 

                             WAY-OUT FASHION IN A BIZARRE YOUNG WORLD
Canary lips, chalk-white skin, flaming hair - is this really what's happening, baby? Not quite. The clothes are designed to be worn by young people under 21, but the colours are something else. They are the doing of an inventive photographer, himself equally young, who achieved his bizarre effect by using infrared film. As if seen under the madly shifting lights of a discotheque, red turns to yellow, blacks to red, blues to purple and reality to fantasy. Fledgling fashionmakers some not yet out of school, are responsible for the designs shown here. Produced by their creators on a one-of-a-kind basis, they are sold at a New York boutique called Abracadabra.

                   Skimpy knit dresses $50, designed by Leilani Abreu, worn with Dynel wigs by Tovar.

                     Velvet (the kind that's used for upholstery) makes a formal-style knicker suit ($75)
                                                             designed by Terry Berman.

                                 Star and stripes outfit ($40) designed by art student Karen Sebiri.

                                                 Zippered nylon suit ($90) by Barbara Hodes.

            Short shift of clashing stripes with one bare shoulder, has a diagonally cut-off hemline.
                                                                    by Susanne Les.


                                                Button trimmed dress ($70) by Karen Sebiri.

           Suspendered overall ($70) worn with a ruffle-trimmed satin blouse and antique silver buttons
                                                               by Paula Ayers.

                                    Mini wedding dress of white organdy ($200) by Stan Weaver.

                                                             PHOTO CREDITS
     All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Life Magazine August 1967, photographer Barry Kaplan.


Wednesday, 5 October 2011

Dandy Fashion: Male Plumage 1968

Scene: Master Bedroom in Suburbia.  Time: Saturday, 8 p.m

The master of the house stands before a three-way, floor-length mirror, 
touching up his 2-inch sideburns and drooping Zapata mustache. He looks gratified-even thrilled.
But what to wear? Should it be his eggshell brocade Nehru suit? Or his simulated cobra skin double-
breasted dinner jacket? Or his lime colored tunic with a chain belt and zip-up white mink coat?
Time passes. Finally, going to the closet, he grabs a diaphanous blouse with ruffles, then his royal blue
crushed-velvet suit. Moments later, he is back at the mirror admiring the Napoleonic roll of the 6-inch collar, the pinched waist, the svelte velvet pants and the slender patent-leather slippers with the silver buckles. After a quick application of his face bronzer and a last caress of his razor-cut graying hair,the man strides from the bedroom and descends the staircase. "Well?" he asks. "Fantastic," snarls his wife. "But I wish you wouldn't take so long. We're already a half hour late."

This is the intro to an eight page editorial originally published in Newsweek Magazine on the 25th of November 1968, which pays homage to the rebirth of the dandy. There are some very good interviews with designers such as Pierre Cardin, Oleg Cassini, Bill Blass and Hardy Amies, it also covers the rise of the lesser known new male boutiques and trends of the time. Apparently in London, an american public-relations consultant named Larry Thaw opened a boutique called Sids - devoted entirely to red, green, tan, dark blue, gray and tortoise-shell patent leather shoes, while in New York a boutique called 'The Zoo' (Attire for the male animal) specialized in vinyl jackets and suits, sample Zoo fare: a $90 yellow vinyl see-through bush jacket to be worn over a jumpsuit. In Los Angeles, The Great Linoleum Clothing Experiment were selling old shirts decorated with new swatches of doilies and shawls (average price $40). And in Palm Beach designer Lily Pulitzer was offering silk-screen prints on corduroy trousers and also experimenting with designs for boldly flowered underwear! The trends in menswear were now changing so rapidly, many of the big department stores began to realise that they could no longer afford to order their stock six months in advance, at the time that this issue went to print several of the most prominent retailers had found themselves with a glut of Nehru jackets on their hands as the style suddenly began to wither!!! An interesting article, worth picking up a copy for the rest of the details if you are in any way interested in menswear from this period, you should be able to find an issue on Ebay eventually, until then I'll leave you with some of my favourite quotes from the piece...

Oleg Cassini: "I'm an outdoor man with an indoor look. I look like a villain, a bird of prey..I was probably the first hippie."

Bill Blass: "I am convinced that, other than speech, there is no better way to express yourself than through clothes."

Hardy Amies: "Let's face it, The men's clothing industry-especially Savile Row-was caught napping. They were still thinking like eminent Victorians when all around them young men were in revolt." (recalling the explosion of mod fashion in London.)

Newsweek cover photo by Didier Dorot, men's apparel courtesy of Alexander's, Bill Blass for PBM, and The Different Drummer. 

A Golden God: Millionaire Michael Butler, jet-set producer of "Hair," strikes a statuesque pose wearing his Tibetan saffron cloak. Photo by Maurice Hogenboom.

                                       Sun Bright: Flowered Lily Pulitzer jeans. Photo by Frank Zagarino

Peter Noone of Herman's Hermits photographed outside Zoo the New York boutique which he opened in partnership with Graham Gouldman, 1968. (Located at 243 East 60th Street.)

             Designer Oleg Cassini wears his informal ''International Cowboy Look.'' Photo by Steve Schapiro. 

In his Beverly Hills discotheque called The Candy Store, hair stylist Gene Shacove takes to the dance floor and sock's it to 'em with his three-button, Napoleonic walking suit. Photo by JuliaWasser

Double-breasted fashions, including such decorative items as a dangling medallion and blue turtleneck, are popular with such notable sports as Bill Russell of the champion Boston Celtics. Photo by Bob Gomel.

                                                                        IMAGE CREDITS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Newsweek magazine 25 November 1968. Original editorial by Associate Editor Pat Smith & reporters Lynn Young and Ainslie Dinwiddle.

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