Thursday, 29 September 2011

The New Boutiques 1965...Biba Postal Boutique, Victoria & Albert, Topgear and Harriet.


                                                      Biba's Postal Boutique


         BIBA..87 Abingdon Road, W.8, just off Kensington High Street, is one of the favourite
         saturday after-the-Portobello-market rendezvous for many fashion-conscious London working
         girls who have pretty strict money limits when it comes to buying new clothes.  Biba's Boutique
         named after her sister in-law*, and run by the artist Barbara Hulanicki and her husband Stephen,
         has definite, down- to-earth ideas on how much clothes should cost.  For instance, you can get a
         coat for about 7 gns, a coat and skirt for 7 or 8 gns, a suit for about 8 gns, day dresses for 3 gns,
         and a long dress for about 5 gns.  And tiny tweed shifts for children cost 38s:6d.

        There are deep-crowned Garbo hats, specially made up in the same fabric as the coats and dresses,
        for 1 gn, and there's a superb selection of handbags, jewellery, belts, stockings and sweaters.
        The whole atmosphere is informal, friendly. You can wander round the high-ceilinged, navy-blue
        room picking coats and hats off bentwood hatstands and out of old victorian wardrobes and try
        them on at your leisure. And you can criticise or admire your choice in an old-fashioned cheval
        mirror. Others who do include Sandie Shaw and Cilla Black.


         Facts - Name:  Biba Postal Boutique
                 Address:  87 Abingdon Road, London, W.8.
                     Hours:  9.30 a.m until 8 p.m every day except sunday.
                     Prices:  a suit for 8gns; dress for 4gns.

 For the girl who wants something different for her next party: a red tartan tweed dress with a cut- out back,about 4gns. Hat to match 1 gn. Both from Biba's Boutique. The effect is being contemplated by owner Barbara Hulanicki.
       
      ( * The boutique was in fact named after Barbara's sister not her sister in-law as stated in this article.)



An extremely rare version of a Biba catalogue illustrated by Barbara Hulanicki turned up for sale on Etsy recently, according to the seller the post mark on the envelope was dated march 1965 which coincides
with this particular Vanity Fair feature. I've uploaded a couple of display photographs from the seller's shop, because if you missed it..you probably won't get the opportunity to see another one for quite some time. If you take a closer look you will notice that in the photograph above, the model is wearing a version of the dress with the cut-away armholes on the right in the second illustration, the final photograph is the cover of the catalogue.
  





                                                      
                                              Harriet Boutique

           HARRIET, is, in fact the name that ex-model Wendy Lewis chose to launch herself into the
           boutique business. Successfully, too. For after starting out almost single-handed-and,she says,
           as a big joke-19 months ago, she now has the satisfaction of seeing her clothes being worn by
           a great number of pacesetting model girls. The Harriet Boutique is almost hidden away in
           Gregory Place, a turning off Kensington Church Street. There at the top of a flight of near-
           rickety stairs is a rail of her latest suits, coats, and dresses, all waiting to be browsed through.
        
           Her clothes are excellent; extremely wearable and very much right 'in fashion' without being
           over gimmicky. This is the sort of place where you'd be almost sure to find something stunning
           either for the wedding you'll be a guest at or for an extra-special night out on the town. Average
           prices are: 14-20 gns for a coat and dress. Lots of care and attention are lavished on made-to-      
           measure wedding dresses and you can have your head-dress specially made up here to suit your-
           self.

           Snooping around while taking photographs were being taken, we pounced with delight on lots
           of bits and pieces from Paris: small simple leather handbags, unusual jewllery, bead belts, plus a
           pretty selection of hats made by Royal College of Art students.

           Fact -  Name:  Harriet Boutique
                  Address:  Gregory Place off Holland Street, London W.8
                      Hours:  9.30 a.m until 6 p.m monday to friday; until 1p.m on saturday
                      Prices:  suits from 14gns; dresses from 7gns.

          For the girl who wants something different for her next outing: a maroony cotton skimmy dress,
          patchwork coat with a deep scooped U neck, 'flat' bows at the waist and hem.
          About 19gns together from Harriet Boutique.


                                                                  
                                          Topgear


          The opening of a new boutique is always an exciting event, more particularly so when it's run by
          livewire model Pat Booth and hat designer James Wedge. Their joint-venture boutique Topgear,
          opened at 135 Kings Road on the day these pictures were taken, about eight weeks ago.
          Topgear is a super, small cube of a boutique, it's high walls painted shiny black and it's back wall
          completely covered with a huge mirror surrounded by light bulbs- like a star's dressing table in a
          theatre!  
          
          Once inside, there's plenty to attract attention. The hats by James wedge are superlative: anyone
          who is looking for a hat for an extra-special occasion would find it very difficult not to fall for his
          Garboesque felt hats, the chenille berets and bonnets, the crochet snoods and the felt crochet-
          trilbies.  There's a tremendous selection of dresses, suits, trouser suits, and they are all by Tuffin
          and Foale, at prices ranging from 5 to 20gns.

         Shoes have been specially designed, are unbelievably priced at 4-5gns a pair. There are exclusive
         -to-the-boutique handbags as well as unusual sweaters, jewellery. And perhaps the nicest thing of 
         all is the fact that you can wander in and browse through the rails without feeling that you have to
         buy something before you can get out again!

         Facts -  Name:  Topgear
                   Address: 135 Kings Road, London, S.W.3.
                      Hours:  10 a.m until 8 p.m. every day except Sunday, Thursday 10-1 p.m.
                      Prices:  a hat for 2gns; a dress for 5gns.

           For the girl who wants something different for her next evening out.
        : Mossy crepe dress outlined with white. By Tuffin and Foale, 10gns from Topgear, modelled here
          by part owner, Pat Booth.



                                                    Victoria and Albert Boutique

      Just a few minutes away from the Albert Memorial is the Victoria and Albert Boutique, it's
     black and white facade standing out boldly in quiet Victoria Grove, a still residential street in
     Kensington. The Victoria half of it caters for women, and the Albert half for men; both are run
     by attractive Rosemary Kirsten. Here, you'll find everything that's up to the minute: marvellously
     hippy skirts, sleek trousers, a terrific choice of dresses for day and evening and a plentiful selection
     of suits and sweaters, blouses, headscarves and handbags, exclusive to the boutique and specially
     made up for it.

     Mrs. Kirsten doesn't do any designing herself, instead, she scours the wholesalers and picks out
     only the best from the best. Some of the name-tags that stick out from the rails read Jane and Jane,
     Polly Peck, Gerald McCann, Emcar, Hilary Huckstep, John Marks. And there is nearly always a
     new name cropping up, for Mrs. Kirsten is so avid in her search for good fashion that no name is
     unknown to her for long.

    The boutique itself is fairly small, undeniably cosy. Black and white ticking screens off the fitting
    rooms. The man's half of the boutique lies through an open archway from the main shop, stocks ties,
    shirts, socks, and sweaters.
  
    Facts - Name:  Victoria and Albert
            Address:  Victoria Grove, London, W.8.
               Hours:   9.30 a.m till 5p.m, every day except Thursday afternoon and Sundays.
      Price Rang :  suits from 6gns; dresses from 3½gns.    

   For the girl who wants something different for her next holiday dress
   : pale pink denim, shapely and shifty, tucked and trimmed with openwork embroidery on it's long
     cuffed sleeves, a tiny stand- up frill at it's neck. By Polly Peck, 6gns from Victoria and Albert.
      

                                                                               PHOTO CREDITS
All images & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from Vanity Fair February 1965, except for Biba catalogue example uploaded from the bekabeka75 shop on Etsy.

Saturday, 24 September 2011

Twen Magazine 1968..Raquel Welch, Heinz Edelmann

A great issue of Twen, published in January 1968, it features Raquel Welch on the cover, an interview with Heinz Edelmann about his illustrative work for The Beatles' Yellow Submarine movie, some fantastic fashion shots and lots of other gorgeous 60s art and illustrations throughout, including a double page illustration of 'Ringo in Wonderland' which measures 21" x 13¼", the issue seems to be fairly rare but occasionally a copy turns up for sale on Ebay, however, incase you haven't managed to find one yet this is a brief glimpse.

Raquel Welch photographed by Terry O' Neill





Ringo in Wonderland-Yellow Submarine illustration by Heinz Edelmann (actual size 21" x 13¼" , click for larger image) .                                                                                     



















                                                  (also a double page illustration 21" x 13¼" )













                                  









                                                                    IMAGE CREDITS
                                          All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Twen  January 1968.
                               

Friday, 16 September 2011

Vanity Fair 1965..Pattie Boyd and Jill Kennington

A wonderful shape this dress. It's close and skimmy, has a high-line frill circled with braid, frill edging for the sleeves. The colours: pink, blue and primrose. By Miss Novell, 7 gns.



Sweet and pretty: a two-piece that looks like a dress, it's a blouson top bound with pink linen at the neck, the hips, and ending with bows at the sleeves. By Susan Barry £5:6s. Narrow gilt bangles by Adrien Mann, from 30s each.


Prettiness plus looks: more black and whiteness, this partnership stressed with white broderie anglaise edging the double frills of the sleeves. Matching headscarf comes with the dress by Highlight Sports 90s:6d. Maguerite bangle by Jewelcraft, 21s.

Efficiency plus looks: tiny clusters of black and white flowers look great set off against snowy white collar and cuffs, the floppy bow at the neck has a pretty, softening effect. By Miss Polly, 6gns. Maguerite ring by Jewelcraft, 10s: 6d. 

Two with a businesslike tag: Left: stiffened white piqué lights up a caramel, orange and yellow flowered dress at the collar and cuffs. The shape. narrow, clingy, shifty. By John Bates at Jean Varon,8½ gns. Right: rave-coloured plum teamed against toffee, makes one of the slickest shirtwaist dresses seen for a long time. It has a self belt, turn up or turn down revers. Sugar Daddy by California 99s:6d. 


Left: a mass of tiny blue flowers are scattered over this shapely dress, their colours accentuated by the deeper blue braiding round the neck and sleeves. In rayon by Simon Massey, 6gns. Ear-rings by Corocraft, 10s:6d.   Right: dark olivey green flowers are massed against a white background on a simple shaped dress. Outlining the front, a double track of contrasting braid, the same for the flared-out sleeves. Sugar Daddy by California, 5 gns.  


                                                                     IMAGE CREDITS
All images & original text scanned by Sweet Jane from Vanity Fair February 1965, original text by Vanity Fair, Photographer Peter Rand.                                                                                                                                                                                                                      
                                                                                                                                                             

Wednesday, 7 September 2011

The Carnaby Street illustrations of Malcolm English












                                                                  

       























      
                                                PHOTO CREDITS   
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from my treasured copy of Carnaby Street by Tom Salter, Illustrations by Malcolm English, Edited by David Whitehead, published by Margaret and Jack Hobbs, Bridge Street, Walton-on Thames, Surrey, (1970).