Sunday, 21 August 2011

HAPSHASH AND THE COLOURED COAT


        The Psychedelic Poster Art of Michael English and Nigel Waymouth.
Michael English and Nigel Waymouth began working together as a design team shortly after they first met in late 1966, primarily to produce posters for UFO (pronounced Yoof-oh) an all-nighter club on the London underground scene founded by Joe Boyd and John 'Hoppy' Hopkins which was located in the basement of an Irish dancehall known as 'The Blarney Club' at number 31 Tottenham Court Road. The new music venue first opened its doors to the public on the 23rd of december 1966, regular live acts included Pink Floyd and The Soft Machine, the light shows were psychedelic, the food available was macrobiotic, the films screened were of the Warhol/Kenneth Anger variety and you could stay there from dusk 'til dawn, it was the ultimate night tripper! Up to this point in time Michael had been working as a free-lance graphic artist within the counter culture scene but had also previously designed pop art logos for 'Gear' boutique in Carnaby street, and Nigel (along with his partners John Pearse and Sheila Cohen) was the proprietor of 'Granny Takes A Trip' - London's first psychedelic boutique which had opened in february of that year, where he was involved in designing some of the clothes and also the decor, it wasn't long before the outlet at 488 King's Road had gained a reputation via its highly unusual and innovative facade.

The pair had been aware of each other's work for some time and hit it off immediately when they were eventually introduced. They initially called themselves Cosmic Colours, their first and only known collaboration using this name being a record promo poster for The Purple Gang's 'Granny Takes a Trip' single in 1967. They subsequently changed the name to Jacob And The Coloured Coat for their second collaboration (the 'Luv Me' film productions Ltd poster) before finally settling on the moniker of Hapshash And The Coloured Coat in march of 1967 for the rest of their working partnership,which although relatively short lived, proved to be very successful. The individual styles of the two artists complimented each other perfectly, and over an 18 month period they produced some of the most beautiful psychedelic posters of the '60s era. During their creative partnership they also recorded an LP backed by The Heavy Metal Kids (who went on to form Spooky Tooth) the album was produced by Guy Stevens, originally a well known DJ at the influential Scene Club in London, who later produced records for artists such as Mott The Hoople, Free and the Mighty Baby, but is probably best known for his production on The Clash's highly acclaimed 1979 London Calling lp.


A major retrospective exhibition of the sixties work of Nigel Waymouth takes place at The Idea Generation Gallery in London next month, you can expect to see artwork from Hapshash And The Coloured Coat, designs from Granny Takes A Trip, including the original sign which hung above the shop door declaring in the words of Oscar Wilde that 'One should either be a work of art or wear a work of art', as well as photographs and ephemera from Nigel's personal collection. The exhibition aptly titled 'Hapshash Takes A Trip' opens on the 9th of september and runs until the 2nd of october 2011. A tube ride or a walk away for all you lucky Londoners, a train or plane trip away for the rest of us, but for anyone interested in this particular era,  definitely not to be missed! 



                   Left to right; Michael English, Nigel Waymouth and Guy Stevens (record producer).                                                     



                                                                             




                                         UFO MK 2, March 1967 designed by Michael English.                                                                          




            The Exterior of Nigel Waymouth's Granny Takes A Trip Boutique, 488 King's Road, London.         

                



   Record promo poster for Granny Takes a Trip by The Purple Gang. Illustrated by 'Cosmic Colours' 1967.




UFO COMING club poster to promote The Crazy World Of Arthur Brown And The Soft MachineLiverpool Love Festival, June 16th & 23rd, designed by Hapshash And The Coloured Coat  1967.                                    



   Poster for Hung On You Boutique, 430 King's Road by Hapshash And The Coloured Coat 1967. 



                  Pink Floyd, July 28 UFO Club designed by Hapshash And The Coloured Coat 1967.




Outside the 'Hung On You' Boutique, summer 1967..if you look behind these two fine exponents of hippie chic, you will notice that the two posters in the links directly above are on display in the shop window.


                                                                          
                      'Luv Me' Film Productions Ltd, designed by Jacob And The Coloured Coat 1967.                                                



        Soft Machine, 'Turn On' record promo, designed by Hapshash And The Coloured Coat 1967.




        Julie Felix, 18th April, Royal Albert Hall, designed by Hapshash And The Coloured Coat 1968.




             The Move, Marquee Club, July 11 1967, designed by Hapshash And The Coloured Coat.




        Record Promo for 'Art', What's That Sound, designed by Hapshash And The Coloured Coat 1967.                                     


                      
                                                                                 



                   'Welcome Cosmic Visitors' designed by Hapshash And The Coloured Coat 1967.





Tomorrow record promo poster for their single My White Bicycle, designed by Jacob And The Coloured Coat 1967. This and the 'Luv Me' film production ltd poster are perhaps the only known two which were designed while using this moniker. I have seen the image of the poster for My White Bicycle constantly credited to Hapshash and the Coloured Coat, however, if you look at the close-up detail in the scan below (taken from High Art - A History of the Psychedelic Poster by Ted Owen and Denise Dickson) you will see that it is clearly signed Jacob and The Coloured Coat.









                                                                                
                                    


                                   
One of a series of Saville Theatre posters, commissioned by Brian Epstein to promote upcoming gigs by The Jimi Hendrix Experience, Tommorow, The Crazy World Of Arthur Brown, Georgie Fame and Eric Burdon etc, designed by Hapshash And The Coloured Coat 1967.




          Position 70, OZ Magazine supplement, designed by Hapshash And The Coloured Coat 1967.



                                                           
                                                                  IMAGE CREDITS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from High Art A History Of The Psychedelic poster by Ted Owen & Denise Dickson, 1966 And All That - Design And The Consumer in Britain 1960-1969 by Jennifer Harris, Sarah Hyde & Greg Smith, Boutique London a History: King's Road to Carnaby Street by Richard Lester, and It Was Twenty Years Ago Today by Derek Taylor.

Thursday, 18 August 2011

GET ON THE QUANT WAVELENGTH (PART 2)

                                                         
                                                               

Karate-cut belted beach-coat in towelling, McManus, 8½ gns. Twiggy wears a Roomy zippered up smock-coat, Daiquiri, 9½, gns. Slip-over sloppy-top, Wham, 5 gns. ; teamed with wide-flaring pants banded in white, Bam, £5 19s. 6d.


  Left: Arm-banded, blouson doublet dress in Velour, Humbug, 11 gns.  Right: Halter-hung    clingy cut away dress, Kinkajou, 9½ gns
               
                               

Cream and boy-blue gaberdine, school-girl katie dress, Tosher, 8 gns. Collarless button-through shirt jacket, Claudius, 5 gns. over slim jim pants, No Nonsense, 99s. 6d. Zippered track-suit top, armbanded, Surprise Packet, 7½ gns. shortie -short culotte skirt, Short Circuit 59s.69d.       
            
Butcher-blue stitched in white, rain-tenting by Mary Quant for Alligator, 9 gns. Twiggy wears Co-ordinated blue/white stripes in brushed denim butler waistcoat, Jeeves, 4gns. team-up with skirt, Winnie, 79s. 6d. and white tricel shirt with wider-than-wide tie, Wilfred, 5 gns. Button-up coat to match, 11½ gns. All by Mary Quant for The Ginger Group
                                         
                                                                PHOTO CREDITS
                                        All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Honey Magazine.
        

Tuesday, 9 August 2011

TIME MAGAZINE DECEMBER 1967





                                       Rudi Gernreich
                      Resort Spring Collection for 1968
Rudi Gernreich's fancies for spring vary dramatic minis with a diaper-like design derived from the Orient, a Siamese-inspired skirt with trousers, or Domino-like sacks which end in billowing bloomers. He also achieves new heights of nudity by using transparent vinyl straps, both in bathing suits and the loose shroud worn by his favourite model Peggy Moffit.
















                                                               YOUTH IN COMMAND.
The most visual, persistent and audacious element of the new fashions is the miniskirt. In the three years since it made its first real appearance in small, offbeat boutiques and far-out discotheques, it has surged onto the campuses, into the offices, out on the avenue-anywhere at all that youth defiantly chooses to show its colors. By general agreement, a true mini rises to just mid-thigh. But with dresses growing shorter by the season, whole new categories have had to be advanced. ''Now,'' notes one San Francisco designer, ''there is the micro-mini, the micro-micro, the 'Oh My God' and the 'Hello Officer.' ''

'Soccer Suit' by Paraphernalia's Betsey Johnson $40
                                                          Photographer: Ken Regan.


Geoffrey Beene, expensive, autocratic and much sought after, just now likes the look of a feathery skirt contrasting with a tight, brightly striped bodice $675. Photographer: Ben Martin.   


                          Metallic Silver Fishnet mini by Paraphernalia $26. Photographer: Ken Regan.             
                       
                     
              
      Orange Cross Strap Grecian Bodice style mini by Jacques Tifleau $185. Photographer: Richard Meek.
             


White organza and lace petal mini evening dress with matching shorts by Oscar De La Renta $475. Photographer: Richard Meek.



Black baby doll dress with white lace bib $275, which manages to be simultaneously demure and provocative, by Bill Blass. Photographer: Richard Meek.


Flapper-like shift derived from the '20s with sequins $1,100 and ostrich-feather skirt with a patent-leather bow $425 both by Geoffrey Beene. Photographer: Ben Martin.
         

                           The mini skirt at work, rest and play 1967....
                
                                                                  


In her working clothes, Producer Pat Layman tinkers with a new TV commercial at a Manhattan ad agency. Among her credits: ''It's a Dirty World'' (Band-Aid). Photographer: Ormond Gigli.


                                              IMAGE CREDITS
              All images & original text  scanned by Sweet Jane from Time Magazine December 1st 1967.

Thursday, 4 August 2011

QUEEN MAGAZINE IN THE 1960s (Part 2)







8th of May 1968. One of the five faces of Twiggy...This version is inspired by Ginger Rogers. The others-and how she creates them are on pages 76-81. Twiggy's white tie, tails and top hat are from Bermans, the theatrical costumiers, and her shoes are from Charles Jourdan. The Photograph is by Justin De Villeneuve.



30th April-13th May 1969. Make-up by Harriet Hubbard Ayer. Cover photograph by Michael Bramman.







4th December 1968. White voile shirt, 12 gns, with lace jabot by Turnbull and Asser, Jermyn Street, W1. Make-up by Lancome. Photograph by Michel Molinaire.



1st-14th October 1969. Crochet hat and lurex gossamer scarf from Feathers, 43 Kensington High Street, W8. Make-up by Guerlain. Cover photograph by Hans Feurer.



   28th June-8th July 1969. Make-up by Lancome. Haircuts by Leonard. Photograph by Clive Arrowsmith.



26th October 1966. Mrs Michael Manley, whose husband is leader of the National Worker's Union and the son of the Hon Norman Manley, Leader of the Opposition in Jamaica, and of Mrs Manley. Banana by Fyffes, of course.





                                                             IMAGE CREDITS
                 All images  & original scanned text from my personal collection of QUEEN magazine.