Tuesday, 19 June 2018

The Biba Bed-Sitting Room (1970)



                                     THE BED-SITTING ROOM

How many of you have bothered to do anything to your rooms since you moved into them months and months ago? Are you still living in a shamefully untidy bed-sitter, and do you still get that 'How I wish I had a cheerful, bright room' feeling every time you come home from work? Have you, for weeks now, been meaning to get down on your hands and knees to scrub and scrape? Has your boyfriend repeatedly offered to help wallpaper the ceiling and bang the nails in? We asked Barbara Hulanicki of Biba to design a fairly inexpensive bed-sitter for 19. Incorporating a few original ideas that were not unduly complicated to carry out. She chose Pontings, which has a good whitewood department—the result is rather stunning. You can see the 19 Biba and Pontings bed-sitter on display, from the 19th September, in the window of Pontings, next door to the High Street Kensington tube station. All merchandise can be got from Biba (opposite Pontings) at 124 High Street Kensington, London W8.



BIBA FASHION 1970

ABOVE: Cream satin pyjamas, from Biba, approx. 10gns., matching cap, £4 10s. Upright desk, from Pontings, £6 7s. 6d. painted with one top coat of Biba cream Flat Oil paint, and trimmed with wallpaper border; dressing-table stool, from Pontings, 28s. 9d., decorated to match. Tissue box has been covered in matching Biba wallpaper (with Polycell) at 1s. 2d. per sheet.



BIBA WALLPAPER 1970


ABOVE: Long cream satin nightdress with frilled neckline and tie waist, from Biba, approx 10gns. Single whitewood hardtop divan with two storage drawers, 36ins. wide, from Pontings, £18 4s. Cream lace bedspread, single 7gns., double £9 10s.; and cream satin cushions, small 19s. 6d., large 29s. 6d. All from Biba. Belling Champion convector heaters, from Pontings, £7 19s., painted with two coats of Biba cream Emulsion (turn the heater up to warm it―turn off―then apply paint) and one coat of Biba cream Flat Oil paint. Cream lace at the window, tacked on to give a blind effect and soft light in the room, available from Biba, 15s 6d. per yard. Cream satin lamp, from Biba, 8gns. Whitewood bedside table, 24ins. high, £5 16s.; desk with compartments and shelves (used here as a dressing-table) 39ins.high, 28s. 9d.; blanket box, £6 17s. All from Pontings. The furniture is painted with one top coat of Biba cream Flat Oil paint, then trimmed with chocolate and cream Biba wallpaper. Emulsion paint, 15s. per quart; Flat Oil paint, 9s. 3d. per pint; wallpaper is 1s. 2d. per sheet. All from Biba.




BIBA FASHION DESIGN 1970

ABOVE: Model wears an ox-blood satin nightdress with lace-up front, from Biba, approx 10gns., with matching scarf tied as a turban, 42s., and choker, 10s. 6d. Biba chocolate brown and cream wallpaper covering walls, ceiling and panels of the bedroom door. The floor has been covered in felt, from Biba, 55s. 6d. per square yard. Cream bedside rug, from Pontings, 5gns. Wall bookshelf (also available with doors, 11s. per pair), from Pontings, 62s. Chest of drawers (five drawers of different depths), 34ins high £13 11s. 6d., valet stand used as a towel rail, 59s 6d. All from Pontings and all painted with Biba Flat Oil paint. Open storage cupboard covered by bedspread, from Biba, 7gns., and lined with wallpaper.



  

                                                   HOW TO DO IT

All you need is a little imagination to change completely the look of a room. Here, along with Biba, we transformed a bed-sitting room and chose a chocolate/cream colour scheme. After the necessary preparations (see below) we gave the furniture a top coat of Biba cream Flat Oil Paint and hung paper on the walls and ceiling and—for continuity used wallpaper borders, applied with Polycell, as a decorative trim, inside the window, bookshelf, stool, desk, blanket trunk, dressing-table and chest of drawers. The wallpaper was also applied to cover the open wardrobe (see picture 3), door-panels and necessary extras. Biba lace cushions and lampshades come in a variety of colours. The following instructions from the furniture manufacturer produce a really professional finish.



BIBA INTERIOR DESIGN 1970




                                          BIBA'S HOUSEHOLD DEPARTMENT 

Three years later, upon moving to the much larger Derry & Toms building at 99-119 Kensington High Street—twenty times the size of its predecessor, Barbara Hulanicki finally had enough room to expand the lifestyle goods section into a fully fledged Household Department located on the fourth floor of the new premises. It was stocked with Biba furniture, rugs, art deco mirrors, lampshades, fabric, tableware and kitchenware, wallpaper, paint, and much more, along with twenty-four individually themed Biba room sets, designed to display the products as they would look best in a variety of domestic settings, to inspire customers with ideas on how to transform their own living space. The opening day Big Biba newspaper, art directed by Steven Thomas and beautifully illustrated by Kasia Charko which had been created to familiarise shoppers with the new store's layout, devoted an entire page to it, the first line of the introduction copy declared that ''This is where houses start becoming homes.''  


BIBA OPENING DAY NEWSPAPER SEPTEMBER 1973
The Biba Household Department illustrated by Kasia Charko for the opening day newspaper, September 10th, 1973.  A total print run of 300,000 copies were produced on newsprint, with a further 1000 limited edition produced on cream cartridge paper.

        

BIBA HOUSEHOLD LOGO KASIA CHARKO 1973

        The Biba Household Department logo, art directed by Steven Thomas, illustrated by Kasia Charko (1973).                            




                                                         BIBA ROOM SETS

BELOW: Some examples of the twenty-four themed Household room-sets, permanently on display at Big Biba 99-119 Kensington High Street, each decorated and stocked with products from the store.                          

BIBA ROOM SET 1973
                                                                           Biba Room-Set, 1973.



BIBA ROOM SET 1973
                                                                              Biba Room-Set, 1973.



BIG BIBA ROOM SET 1973
                                                                              Biba Kitsch Room-Set. 1973.




                                              IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS

All Biba bed-sitting room images scanned by Sweet Jane from an original article by Fiona Bird for 19 Magazine, October 1970. Photographer and model uncredited. Big Biba Opening Newspaper Household Department page 13, Household logo, and Room-Sets scanned from Welcome to Big Biba by Steven Thomas and Alwyn W. Turner. Discover more about Barbara Hulanicki and view some fantastic behind the scenes footage of Biba 124 Kensington High Street filmed around the same period that this 19 Magazine feature was originally published. More boutiques business from Biba 124-126 Kensington High Street (1970); The Maxi-Look from Biba (1970); and Biba's American Debut (1971). An earlier bed-sitting room make-over, this time courtesy of Celia Birtwell, Ossie Clark and Molly Parkin—Bedsitter Girl - Jane Asher in Nova (1966). Tips on Cooking in a Bedsitter by Katharine Whitehorn (1963). A detailed history of Ponting Brothers Ltd—John Barker’s Magnificent Department Stores On Kensington High Street. And Finally, the Barbara Hulanicki designed range of wallpapers currently available from Graham & Brown, and her current paint range, which includes shades of  Witchcraft, Fetish, and Earth.

Monday, 21 May 2018

One Plus One, The Rolling Stones and Jean-Luc Godard - A Rave Magazine Exclusive (1968)


The 50th Anniversary of the tumultuous anti-establishment Paris protests of May '68 which eventually brought the entire economy of France to a standstill is upon us, as is the anniversary of the acclaimed French film director Jean-Luc Godard's ''One Plus One'' starring the Rolling Stones from the same year—an early example of work made during what is now regarded as his revolutionary period. The film was still in the production stages when this Rave magazine interview with producer Iain Quarrier (who also had an acting role in it) was originally published, and although Quarrier wasn't entirely sure at this point whether or not his own part would make it into the final edit, he was emphatic about one thing—that this was not a Rolling Stones' film—it was a Godard film! However, upon its release, it transpired that Quarrier/Cupid Productions had made just two but nonetheless very significant changes which altered that balance. Firstly, before the London Premiere, without Godard's knowledge or permission, he chose to re-edit the final scene to include the fully completed version of 'Sympathy for the Devil' which is the opening track on Beggars Banquet—the Rolling Stones' seventh studio album, documented in the making by Godard throughout the entire recording process as it evolved at Olympic Studios, in Barnes, West London...then renamed the film title after it accordingly. It's probably needless to say that these changes caused quite a bit of friction between the two men, and also created a marketing nightmare as both versions were released simultaneously, often screening at the same theatres, adding to the controversy and confusion. Much has been written on the subject over the years, so I've included several links at the end of this post to some of the best that I've found as I sifted through all of the news, reviews, personal accounts, and critiques. However, if you're in the London area, you can see what all the fuss is about for yourself this very week, as One Plus One (or perhaps Sympathy for the Devil) + Intro by Alex Loftus and Mark Shiel from King’s College London will be screening as part of the BFI's Uprising: The Spirit of ’68 Season on Tuesday, 22nd May 2018. And I would also suggest that you check out Rainbow Quarrier, a comprehensive overview of Iain Quarrier's career. I'm surprised that there hasn't been a book or documentary about this man yet, there's certainly enough material and 'Swinging London' backstory there for one, or maybe both! 



Exclusive to RAVE, a report of the Rolling Stones' first film, ''One Plus One''...
It's been three long years since the Rolling Stones first announced their intention to become film stars. It took almost a year for them to discover that they wanted to do '''Only Lovers Left Alive''. By the time they almost got down to starting it, they had changed their minds. And their own personal problems of last year set them back, film-wise, even further. These troubles cropped up once again this year, when after a year's break from the pop world, and just at the point of their 'comeback', which they celebrated with a No.1 record, ''Jumping Jack Flash'', Brian Jones was involved once again in the most unfortunate, drug charges publicity. The old Stones magic is still there, and fortunately so was Brian Jones, for the shooting of their first film ''One Plus One''. It was directed by French avant-garde director, Jean-Luc Godard, and produced by Cupid Productions, the company founded by the Hon. Michael Pearson and Canadian actor Iain Quarrier. The Stones, as always in times of trouble, were hard to get hold of, but producer Quarrier was available to comment on the film. ''The idea was brought to me and I liked it. We wanted to do this film very much, especially with Godard. It's quite a fantastic opportunity to do this, Cupid's first film—and one so big.''  Quarrier has also got a part in this, Godard's first English speaking film, but ''This is really the last thing on my mind at the moment. I'll be very pleased if I am used by him in the film, but it's not definite. He switches around so much that you just don't know what is going to happen next. Nothing is certain.'' Films and film are not new to Quarrier, from the other side of the camera. He's appeared in ''Cul de Sac'' and ''The Vampire Killers'' with ''Wonderwall'' and Roman Polanski's ''Dance of the Vampires'' to come—quite an impressive score.


''This is not a Rolling Stones film, it's a Jean-Luc Godard Film!'' Iain Quarrier


'Godard bases his film on a sort of treatment'' he went on. ''It's all improvisation with the people he uses. He uses people naturally, experimentally. He let's them be themselves. There's never any kind of script, as such.'' How did the Rolling Stones come to be chosen out of all the groups on the pop scene? It was once suggested that the Beatles were very interested in doing this film, but the Stones were chosen as being more suitable. At the mention of the Stones, Quarrier insisted, ''This is not a Rolling Stones' film, it's a Jean-Luc Godard film! The Stones were chosen because we liked them the most, and they seemed much more suitable. Godard's long been an admirer of their creative and musical talent. He just adores them, and they fit in with the whole project of this film.'' ''One Plus One'' will be based on parallel themes of construction and destruction. The destruction side comes in the form of the old, but ever popular, eternal love triangle, which in this case ends in suicide. Terence Stamp has been approached for a part, but nothing, as yet, has been signed on the dotted line. As far as construction goes, there's the Rolling Stones cutting a record in the Olympic Recording Studio in London. Both situations take place in the same, in the same time —London. 





''Things are going very well. We all roll up at the studio, and Godard and his camera crew are ready to shoot.'' Mick Jagger


How are the Stones shaping up? ''Well, they're just fantastic. Basically it's just the Stones being themselves. Acting as they act in the studio, talking as they talk, all very natural. We were very fortunate to get them. I can't really say more about the film, because with Godard, it's very difficult to say what is actually happening until you've seen the the finished film.'' As for the Stones themselves, they love Godard, and it's all really sort of a mutual admiration society, which can only bring out the best in people. Says Mick, ''Things are going very well. We all roll up at the studio, and Godard and his camera crew are ready to shoot what is to be shot. When there was the fire at at the studio, Godard quickly filmed it—then we ran for our lives!'' Apparently, while the Stones, along with Marianne Faithful, were at the studio, the roof burst into flames and started to collapse. All the Stones equipment was damaged by debris and water. ''It was a pretty fantastic blaze,'' said Mick. ''It was a good job it was the roof. We saw it coming! It was filmed, so there's a small chance it may be included in the film.''  What Godard is actually shooting is the Stones cutting their latest album. ''Beggars Banquet'', released on July 26th, which is Mick's birthday, filming the recording, the hang-ups, everything as it happens.  Said Keith, ''We made our album and we were filmed at the same time. That's the way he does things. He films a bit, then he takes a look at it and decides what to do next. That's the way we like to work too.''  When you will see the film depends on a lot of things. How quickly Godard edits the film, and if there are any more riots in Paris where he works, are factors! Nevertheless, wait and watch out for ''One Plus One''. It all sounds rather interesting, and the Stones captured on celluloid for posterity a very rare milestone in movie history!




Above: The official Cupid Productions trailer for Sympathy for the Devil (1968). But, in spite of the Rave magazine headline, this, as we all know, was not the Rolling Stones first film. Peter Whitehead had previously shot the Stones in 1965 over a three day period as they embarked on a two-date tour of Ireland. The film would premiere a year later as 'Charlie is my Darling' before disappearing from public view after a management change, resurfacing thereafter over the years that followed via poor quality bootleg copies, or at the occasional screening, before eventually seeing an official release by ABKCO Films in 2012.
























                            

                                           The Heart of Occident
The aforementioned studio fire, Terence Stamp, and also the narrative regarding the 'eternal love triangle' ending in a suicide may not have made it into the finished version of the film, but Iain Quarrier certainly did, resplendent in purple corduroy, as a bookseller of pornographic literature, reading aloud from Mein Kampf. 



Iain Quarrier - One Plus One (Dir. Jean-Luc Godard - 1968) courtesy of Cupid Productions Ltd. (Note: *All wardrobe Department/Costume Design information absent from the film credits).




      

                      IMAGE CREDITS,  LINKS, & FURTHER READING
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from an original article in Rave Magazine, August 1968. Read an edited transcript of an interview with the director, made for the BBC TV programme Release in November 1968: One to One: Jean-Luc Godard Speaks, and also The Rolling Stone Interview (1969)A look behind the lens at the famed French new wave director of 'Breathless' and 'Band of Outsiders'. One Plus One, the original version of Godard's 'Sympathy for the Devil' film, is shown to benefit filmmakers organization (April 2, 1970). The Depiction of late 1960s Counter Culture in the 1968 films of Jean-Luc Godard'. Mim Scala: Diary of a Teddy Boy- a Memoir of the Long SixtiesChapter 18 provides an excellent behind the scenes insight into the making of the film.  A look at the events and some of the causes of the uprising in France in the Spring of 1968 - including footage of protests by Godard and Truffaut in defence of Henri Langlois who had been dismissed from his position as co-founder and director at the Cinémathèque Française. The Story Of Olympic Studios—an interview with studio engineer Keith Grant. Discover more about the actor Sean Lynch, who although unseen in One Plus One, can be heard as a constant narrative throughout the film, and you can also view the man behind the voiceSean Lynch photographed outside Paddington Registry Office on the day of his wedding to English Jazz singer Annie Ross, in London, August 19th 1963. Separation (Dir. Jack Bond - 1968)  Starring Iain Quarrier (*with clothes from Granny Takes a Trip, Quorum, and The Carrot on Wheels). Cupid Productions Ltd the company responsible for two of the classic films of the 1960s and 1970s: the car chase cult movie Vanishing Point, directed by Richard C. Sarafian and the Rolling Stones movie Sympathy for the Devil, aka One Plus One, directed by Jean-Luc Godard. From Paris in the Sinister Sixties to Hollywood’s Magic Castle: Cult Horror actor Ferdy Mayne recalled, among other things,  Quarrier as ''a central supplier of the chemicals, mostly acid, that kept the scene soaring at its stratospheric level.'' Mia Farrow, the American actress, used a four-letter word at Bow Street Court, London, yesterday, when she was called as a witness in the case against Canadian producer Iain Quarrier (16th November 1968). Jagger vs Lennon: London's riots of 1968 provided the backdrop to a rock 'n' roll battle royale. Some more Rolling Stones on film: Charlie is my Darling (Original 1965 cut); The Rolling Stones Rock and Roll Circus (1968); Gimme Shelter (1970); Performance (1970) plus, be sure to keep an eye out for the forthcoming limited edition, large format book by author Jay Glennie, with new & unseen images marking the 50th Anniversary of Performance starring Mick Jagger, James Fox, and Anita Pallenberg, available for pre-order soon!; Ned Kelly (1970);  Cocksucker Blues (1972); Ladies and Gentlemen: The Rolling Stones (1974); The Greatest Rock 'n' Roll movie never made—Only Lovers Left Alive. And finally, The Radical Film Network's 1968 Festival Programmea worldwide programme of film-based events and discussions around the legacy and potential of 1968 in the popular imagination.

Monday, 7 May 2018

The early illustrations of Wojtek Siudmak - Plexus 1969



                                                            PLEXUS
                                       LA  REVUE  QUI DÉCOMPLEXE

Some examples of early graphic artwork created by the Polish-born painter Wojtek Siudmak for Plexus, the French erotic/art magazine, which ran for a total of 37 issues from 1966-1970. It was originally published bimonthly from Issue No.1 (April/May 1966) for twelve issues, then every six weeks from Issue No.13 (March 1968) - No.17, and finally published monthly from Issue No.18 (November 15th 1968) - No.37 (July 1970). I have an almost complete collection (missing four), it's a really interesting magazine, and although eroticism is the thematic focus, each one also contains many interviews and features on various topics such as philosophy, history, literature, art, and fashion, almost all are heavily illustrated throughout with incredible artwork and comic strips, the covers (always illustrated) are pretty spectacular too. Siudmak, better known for his work as a 'fantastic hyper-realist' artist, became a regular contributor to the publication towards the end of the decade, after he had relocated to France in the mid 1960s. These particular graphics were used consistently in varying colourways throughout the later issues from December 1968 onwards, as an introduction to the reviews, theatre, exhibitions, books, cinema and event guide sections. I've enlarged them here for display purposes, but in reality each one only measures around 1½'' x 1½''. You can discover more about the artist and view some of my previous posts about Plexus Magazine via the links at the end of the page.






















































                                                                    IMAGE CREDITS & LINKS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Plexus, Issue No.23, April 1969. All illustrations by Wojtek Siudmak. View some the artist's current work on the Official Siudmak Website and the Siudmak Online Shop. Further information about Siudmak in this Dangerous Minds post To ‘Dune’ and Beyond: The Interstellar Hyper-Realism of Wojciech Siudmak. View some of my previous Plexus Magazine posts: Aubrey Beardsley Prince De L'Art  Plexus 1968; Dandy Fashion: Les Assassins du Bodygraph - lancent le prêt - à - choquer Plexus 1967; L'Homme Qui Ramassait Les Épingles - Plexus 1968. And finally 'Le Creux Du Rêve' - Illustrations by Paul Barrué - Plexus 1969.

Sunday, 29 April 2018

Smoke and Leather 1971



                                                 Pour La Peau 





La chance du Short...Leather Jacket and shorts by Brezin, the upper back and elbows of the jacket are studded. Maxi-socks by Colette Brezin,  Baroux boots, and José Cotel belt for Beige.





Fine trench coats. In thin, supple skins, the trench becomes a truly feminine garment. On the right: a coat in Lambskin by Gérard Silvi, Boots by Maude Frizon. On the left: a leather-treated Cowhide coat by Thierry Mugler for Divya, braided in red leather. Tilbury boots.


















Quilted. Quilting is a general trend this year. It is particularly suitable for leather clothing. Right: a jacket closed on the side, in quilted lambskin, by Charles Ambers. It is worn with trousers in Paprika. Belt Baroux. On the left: a quilted jacket and lambskin pants from Everskin. Choker and leather strap from José Cotel for Beige. Shoes by Salamander.






The airmen's jackets. Right: a jacket in lambskin from Gets. It is tightened at the bottom by a belt closed with a metal buckle. José Cotel Belt for Beige: Left: a Furs Ettex (Paris) jacket in lambskin, lined with fur. The shoes are from Salamander.





Long jackets. In leather or velvet skin, they are always in good stead. On the left: a lamb jacket with a patina of Sahara-style Paprika. On the right deer skin and fur jacket, and trousers in lambskin by Gérard Silvi. The turtleneck is from Colette Brezin. Salamander shoes.



                                            IMAGE CREDITS & LINKS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from an original editorial in Dépèche Mode, May 1971. All photographs by Dominique Ruat. Hair by Elrhodes, 122, faubourg, Saint-Honoré, Paris. Models uncredited.  View some of my previous posts featuring the designs of Gérard Silvi and Thierry Mugler, and also more Hair Styling by Jean-Yves Elrhodes (1968). The confessions of Manfred Thierry Mugler: on George Michael, Beyoncé, his physical transformation and his new career. Biker influenced leather fashion, by John Stephen of Carnaby Street in Dolly Rockers (1968), and Rags for Riders 1971Beyond Rebellion: Fashioning the biker Jacket-an online exhibition at FIT New York. Marianne Faithfull making the most of her black leather, fleece-lined jumpsuit designed by Lanvin, Paris, for her role in the 1968 film The Girl on the Motorcyclealso known as Naked Under Leather (1968). You can't talk about leather without mentioning Suzi Quatro's iconic leather jumpsuit, designed for her by Nigel Preston in 1973 under his Maxfield Parrish label, view an interview with Suzi about the look on the BBC Documentary  Oh! You Pretty Things: The Story of British Music and Fashion - Idols [Episode 2 of 3]. Watch Suzi Quatro As Leather Tuscadero - All Her Performances On "Happy Days. Discover more about the heritage of the Nigel Preston/ Maxfield Parrish Design Label, and Nigel Preston the man behind it. The Black Leather Jacket (Book & documentary) by Mick Farren. The Evolution of Women Smoking in Film. And finally, The Runaways Black Leather (1978).


Thursday, 5 April 2018

What's wrong with beads and bells? 1967




                      WHAT'S WRONG WITH BEADS AND BELLS?
What's all the fuss about flower children? It seems that everyone over the age of thirty—particularly the national press, the police, and the establishment generally—has had something hard to say about hippies. Loud cries of free love, junkies, nude parties. It seems any girl who throws off her office clothes on Friday night and puts on a cut-down Indian bedspread is in danger of having herself labelled. It means nothing to these critics that the vast majority of Britain's hippies are part-timers; weekend flower children with five day week jobs. Intro's countrywide investigation estimates that nine out of ten of them DON'T take drugs, DON'T sleep around and, most important DON'T harm anyone. All the same, they're being harassed by police and maligned by the papers. Few people have chosen to discriminate between the hard-core, hard drug beat, who is using the hippie movement to excuse his way of life, and weekend part-timers; young people with a desire to be differentto show that they're something more than extensions of the old generation.  Who dares to dictate that we must all dress alike, all look alike?  



''I can have a good time without drugs.'' Jean MacIlroy, eighteen, (cover model), a Brockley, London, bank clerk, also said she's a part-time hippie. ''I don't use drugs, but I feel it's a matter of individual choice.''





In defence of unconventional dress among young people, Dr. Barbara Gray, a Birmingham University lecturer in Social Studies and a member of the Latey Committee (which recommends that young people should be regarded as adults at eighteen instead of twenty-one) says: ''Almost every group of teenagers tries to produce a different style of dress. Each generation produces something that distinguishes them from the middle-aged. When they dress in a style which could identify them with the hard-core hippie, then everybody gets tarred with the same brush; perhaps it is not so surprising. The fault is partly ours for not trying hard enough to look at each person as an individual; I think that we should try hard to avoid criticizing them as a group.''







                                                              WOBURN ABBEY LOVE-IN
Support has also come from one of Britain's most progressive aristocrats, the Duke of Bedford, who threw open his stately home, Woburn Abbey, to a love-in. He said: They were absolutely charming; the most polite people I've ever met.'' It's estimated that there are no more than two hundred real and dedicated hippies in Britain (they utterly ignore society and live a tribal experience. All life is sacred and they preach love and complete freedom to do as they wish). The remainder are part-timers; almost 50,000 young people who are in it partly because they agree it's better to love someone than to hate, and partly for the fun of a new experience. But, part-timers are having a tough time with the law, especially in London. Many of them gather in the West End before moving on to a club or partyand the police take a dim view. To test this point, two INTRO staffers, a girl and a boy, hung around in Trafalgar Square. They were dressed quite normally and ignored by police. Later, they returned, dressed in Indian Guru jackets, bells and beads. Twice they were moved on; each time the girl was roughly questioned-apparently on how she was dressed.





The Festival of The Flower Children, Woburn Abbey, August 26th-28th 1967 - billed as a 3-day, non-stop happening, the line-up of acts included the Small Faces, Jeff Beck, Eric Burdon and many more! plus DJ sets from Jeff Dexter, Mike Quinn and Tommy Vance. Along with the promise of free flowers and sparklers for 'the beautiful flower children in the most beautiful surrounding'.

                           

                                              BRUSH WITH THE LAW
It happens with other weekenders too. Two eighteen year olds, Linda Evans and Janis Coles, factory workers from Middlesbrough, came to London for a week's holiday. They saw the hippies, liked their clothes, and dressed with beads and bells. They were talking to friends in Trafalgar Square when a policeman approached. ''He said to us, in front of everybody: 'Are you prostitutes?' Then he took us to the police station and kept us there for over two hours.'' Despite these embarrassing brushes with the law, Britain's part-time hippie cult is growing and spreading to major provincial centres. In Bristol, there's already a weekend community, mostly hippie parties in private flats. John (he doesn't use a surname), a twenty year old telephone engineer, said: ''Soon the whole scene will be going on in parks in Bristol...until the fuzz comes along. At the moment they just shrug their shoulders.'' York, Littlehampton, Leeds and Cambridge are also developing weekend groups. Christine Simpson, sixteen, a student from York, said: ''I'm a part-time hippie. I've worn beads in Yorkthey're catching on.'' Mandy Harvey is fourteen, still at school, and comes from Harston, Cambridge. She says: It's sickening that the papers put out a completely wrong image, but I suppose I'm lucky; my mother isn't misled by these reports and she doesn't mind me dressing like this.'' Mandy wears beads, bells and no shoes. She uses heavy make-up round her eyes. Drugs are condemned by almost all weekend hippies. Jeanette Osborne, a sixteen year old student from Gosport, Hants, said: ' I don't take drugs and if people can't live without them, life can't be worth much. I wouldn't take them. '' Bernadette Jarvis,  twenty-three, a Wembley bank clerk, said '' I can have a good time without drugs.'' Jean Macllroy (she's on our cover), eighteen, a Brockley, London, bank clerk, also said she's a part-time hippie. ''I don't use drugs, but I feel it's a matter of individual choice.''








                                When hippies met in Trafalgar Square for a sit-in, the police made it a move-on.                                               



                                                                   GREAT GEAR FOR FUN
Few of the girls in hippie dress are upset by people's stares. ''We don't feel embarrassed,'' said Janis Coles. ''Why should we?'' Jeanette Osborne said: ''I wear jeans, flowers and blouses with love written on them. I go around as a flower child and have a laugh.'' Bernadette Jarvis and her friend Jill Simpkins said: ''We do it because we don't like conservative dress. Unfortunately we can't dress like this all the time because we wouldn't be accepted in our jobs.'' And some girls have mother problems. Ann Bolger, eighteen, a secretary from Leyton, said: ''I'd like to wear the gear but I'm afraid people would laugh.'' And Ann's mother added ''I wouldn't like it at all.'' A South American secret society has an initiation ceremony at puberty for girls and young men, involving intricate body painting (some part-timers have adopted this idea to ''baptise'' new friends). Eyes of ancient Egyptian girls, about to perform acrobatic dances, were heavily decorated with paint. They also wore bangles, flowers and coloured ribbons in their hair-and very little else. Intro says: We don't think the flower children are doing anyone harm. There's nothing wrong with wearing beads. There's nothing wrong with a dress that's different. And it's certainly not wrong to make the most of weekends after a nine-to-five, Monday-to-Friday life.





                            Smiling flower children (above) with a banner saying: ''Follow Us''  everyone did.




                                                                         Be●In Dress from Way In (1967).



                                          Unisex Kaftans, beads, and bells, available from Chelsea Mail (1967).



That you could also purchase an (almost) complete hippie outfit via these mail order adverts from the same issue of this teen magazine, pretty much signalled the toll of the impending death knell, as the look of the counterculture moved steadily into the mainstream faster than the ideology of the lifestyle behind it. Approximately two weeks after this issue went to print, the Death of Hippie was formally announced in San Francisco, the Death Notice stated: HIPPIE ~ In the Haight Ashbury District of this city, Hippie, devoted son of Mass Media ~ Friends are invited to attend services beginning at sunrise, October 6th, 1967, at Buena Vista Park. The ceremony was led by Ron Thelin, owner of The Psychedelic Shop at 1535 Haight Street, which was set to close, having found itself in debt (to the tune of $6,000, according to Barry Miles author of Hippie - Cassell Illustrated), as were many of the other businesses and clinics in the area. Attendees filled a cardboard coffin with various hippie artefacts and trappings of the lifestyle, such as copies of underground newspapers, beads, bells, and clothing etc, the open coffin was then carried down Haight Street in a funeral possession, stopping at the junction of Haight-Ashbury for a kneel-in, before being ceremonially burned at its final destination. However, although pronounced dead and buried by the people who truly believed in it, in its purest form..it wouldn't 'Rest in Peace' for long. I doubt that it immediately stopped the coach tours full of of hippie-spotting day trippers driving down Haight Street, and it most certainly didn't stop the mass media from continuing the pursuit (as they had hoped it would). The proof is evident in the proliferation of films, books, newspaper and magazine articles, and especially through the advertisement agencies which continued to repurpose the imagery, ideas and language of the counterculture long after it had reached saturation point in San Francisco, and appropriated it for consumers who were living conventional, suburban lives (see examples from 1969-1971 below). Personally, I'm quite fond of a lot of these adverts and artefacts, it was a very creative period, but i'm sure it must have been extremely disheartening to the people who were committed to the counterculture, because they had such high ideals and hopes for the movement, and it probably felt like a failure on many levels at the time. Of course with hindsight, we know that it wasn't, it just took a longer for the best ideas and practices to filter down and integrate properly into mainstream society, it always does, you can change the world, but you can't change the world overnight.







A Simplicity Pattern Co. Inc print advert (1969) which makes reference to the counterculture lifestyle, in a bid to put a slightly new slant on their usual 'tried and tested' selling technique in keeping with the times, by tapping into the decade's quest for freedom from the mainstream, and appealing to the desire for individuality within the non-conformist. 

                 


This William Barry Outerwear  'before and after' print advert, would have you believe that trading in an alternative lifestyle choice and look, and returning to a conventional one, was a good move! (note the well worn, real fur and natural fibres on the left Vs. the ''Put On'' in warm, plush pile of 100% Orlon manmade Acrylic on the right), making a clear distinction between hippie culture and mainstream consumerism. 




An advertisement for a range of leather belts by Fife & Drum, originally published in September 1971, and although not necessarily 100% hippie, there are many references to the imagery and ideals of the counterculture in both the ad copy and art work, they've even managed to work Frank Zappa into it. And on a subliminal level, the mention of 'a holding company' made me think of Big Brother and the Holding Company..even if that wasn't their intention.

      

                                           IMAGE CREDITS & LINKS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from an original article for Intro Magazine September 23rd 1967. Photographer, illustrator and models all uncredited in the original publication, except for cover model Jean MacIlroy. Simplicity Pattern Co. Inc image scanned from 60s All-American Ads (Taschen). William Barry Outerwear and Fife & Drum advert (1971) scanned from The Male Mystique- Men's Magazine Ads of the 1960s and 1970s by Jacques Boyreau. If you did happen to find yourself in trouble with the law under one of these circumstances in particular back in 1967, the best people to look for were Rufus Harris and Caroline Coon, who founded Release, a civil rights agency providing legal advice for young people charged with the possession of drugs. View an interview with Caroline Coon filmed in 1968, this interview was conducted on the day Coon was released from Holloway Prison, having been arrested for protesting about the prosecution of Rolling Stone Brian Jones for drug possession. Here you'll find a small archive of documents from the drug advice and referral agency, Release, dating from its inception in 1967 through to its tenth anniversary. And in some of my previous posts you'll find Felicity Green's report on the flower power fashion scene, August 1967; Apple Clothing - Apple Boutique 1968; Rave Magazine's in-house dandy decked out in flower-power finery from Kleptomania 1967; Flower Power Maddie Smith (1967) before she became more widely known as an actress; Dentelle Galler & the King's Road Hippies 1969, and The Rise and Decline of the Afghan Coat 1966-197?. Discover more about the Death of Hippie October 6th 1967 (lots of photographs of the event included). And here, you can view some filmed footage plus an interview about it with Ron Thelin. More film footage of  protest scenes outside The Psychedelic Shop after the Police arrested Allen Cohen (store clerk) for selling "The Love Book" by Lenore Kandel, on grounds of obscenity in 1966. A fantastic review of the recently published Hippie Food: How Back-to-the-Landers, Longhairs, and Revolutionaries Changed the Way We Eat by Jonathan Kauffman (a must-read!).  And finally, you know the dream is over when ''they're selling hippie wigs in Woolworth's man!''


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