Monday, 7 January 2019

Mary Farrin Knitwear Designer - Jackie Magazine (1970)

                                                                                                                                  You'll go far in high flying Mary's Gear!

Any of you Jackie girls got a knitting machine? Well you could be in business. 'cause Mary Farrin, queen of the knitwear scene, is always looking for new girls to knit her fantastic gear. ''Any girl under 50, with at least six hours a week to spare can work for me, though most of them are in the Croydon and Sutton areas. ''All the girls are given a week's training. Even if they've never seen a knitting machine before, they can still learn very quickly. ''Then the girls take their machines home and work in their spare time.'' Now you might think knitting is all very well, but you'll never amount to very much doing it. Well, you're wrong! That's just how Mary started out. ''I used to be a demonstrator for a knitting machine firm. But I got bored going around all the little towns, so I started knitting dresses for myself, I wore one while I was demonstrating, and the buyers asked me where I got it. They asked me to make some for them, and it just went on from there. ''I worked at Fenwicks in Oxford Street for a couple of months to learn the business. They ordered the dresses and on Mondays I'd deliver them wearing a new design. ''At first I did everything on my own, then my younger brother, David, became a knitter in the evenings to get extra cash.'' Now David is in charge of the production side of the business and Mary spends her time designing.

Born in Surrey, Mary now lives in a Kensington flat with her husband John Thorne. She works mainly with angora, but everything she sells in her South Molton Street boutique is definitely knitted. ''In any other material, I always feel so restricted. I love wearing knitted clothes-they feel so free.'' At the moment, Mary reckons she has about 100 different designs on the market in 22 colours. ''I add to the collection all the time, with a few more colours every year. ''I have a basic dress, and I just add to it or take away from it. ''I travel quite a lot to get ideas. I've just got back from Malta, which was really great.'' In her spare time, Mary is quite an active person. ''I play tennis and squash, and I watch my husband play hockey. ''I'm also learning to fly! I'd like to get a Comanche aeroplane. But my husband said he'd never come flying with me!'' Proving that her mind is always on fashion, Mary even designed an outfit connected with flying. ''It's a knickerbocker trouser suit, with a black helmet and boots. I just thought it wold be nice to go flying in!'' 

At present Mary has three boutiques, and 40 shops stock her lines. She exports to quite a few countries, including America, Sweden, Germany and Japan. ''I've just started a children's range of knitted clothes. My ordinary range is designed for anyone from 16 to 60! A lot of boutiques just cater for people up to 24 and then end, but I think that's all wrong.'' And don't think Mary has forgotten about the blokes! ''Joe Brown is going to wear some of my gear. One of my angora tunic dresses could easily pass for a long polo-neck sweater, I think they'd look jolly nice. Men have been wearing cashmere for ages, so why not angora?'' Mary also came to fame when she visited Paris earlier this year. ''Christian Dior wanted to see my collection. He said he would give me an order for a couple of hundred―but my label would be replaced with the Dior brand. ''I insisted that my label stayed on the garments―but Dior thought it was an honour to have his label. ''I said no deal, so they ordered a couple of hundred-anyway, with my label still in place!'' This very talented girl still has three ambitions. I'd like to have my own plane, and a villa, and a boutique in Capri! When I started my ambition was to have an E Type Jaguar. I got that very quickly though―so now i'm wondering what's next.''

(*Note: Christian Dior died in 1957. When this article went to print in 1970, Marc Bohan was the head designer at Dior.) 

Marry Farrin knitwear design (1967)

Hers, backless dress, half-pink, half-white, by Mary Farrin, in fluffy angora, with very high front. Pink silk stockings by Bear brand. Pink crepe shoes, with square paste and pink brilliante buckle, by Charles Jourdan. Hair-styles are by Leonard.  His, long high-necked Prussian-style Indian silk dressing gown in turquoise and mauve paisley design, from Turnbull and Asser. Bed-cover in silver PVC by Anderson Manson. Spotted plastic cushions at Presents of Sloane Street. Decanter at Clewes and Makin. Photograph by John Stember.

                                              Image Credits & Links
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from (1). an original article for Jackie Magazine, February 7th, 1970. Photographer uncredited. (2.) The Mary Farrin angora backless dress example was scanned from Queen Magazine, November, 1967 - Photograph by John Stember, and you can view the entire editorial in my original post Clothes to be in Love in (1967); more Hit Knits by Mary Farrin in Vogue, September (1967); A soft angora dress in beige, with bands of white and brown at the hem and on a cute top pocket, by Mary Farrin via A day in the Life of a Rave girl - Rave Magazine (1968). Further information about those Comanche aeroplanes as mentioned in the interview above, and also some examples of the knickerbocker trouser suits which were popular in 1970. You'll find a dream of a dress in a flare of ice cream colours by Mary Farrin, amongst this John Stephen of Carnaby Street post. Vintage Mary Farrin knitwear examples. And finally, Whatever Happened to Mary Farrin? She was incredibly successful, particularly throughout the 1960s and 1970s, and these are the decades in which you'll find the most related press and publicity articles. However, although I think the business was still active in the 1980sthe trail runs out around this time, and I believe that the company may have gone into liquidation circa 1990.

Tuesday, 1 January 2019

Baby Doll Colours from the Rainbow at Woolworth's - Rave Magazine (1968)

                                                                 BABY DOLL

                      COLOURS FROM THE RAINBOW

Yes! LOOK OUT! Baby Doll's put a rocket behind the make-up scene again with super new 'Colours from the Rainbow' ☛ Groovy Green Liner ☛ Violet Shadow ☛ fabulous Rainbow Blue Pearl Nail Varnish ☛ and brilliant Pearl Red 30's lipstick. Dare you? ☛ And lots more gorgeous in-tune colours at Cinderella prices. So have a ball!!!!

   Baby Doll Make-Up 'Colours from the Rainbow' range at Woolworth's (1968).


 Baby Doll  Make-up's New Rainbow Eyes Multi-coloured Eye-Shadow Pack (1968).


   Baby Doll Pearl Polish, Nail Polish, Eye Shadow and Eye Liner (1968).


          Baby Doll 'Colours from the Rainbow' at Woolworth's (1968).


Baby Doll Lipstick  in shades of 30s Reds (1968).

                                              IMAGE CREDITS & LINKS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Rave Magazine, May, 1968. Baby Doll Make-Up made by  E.R. Holloway LimitedArtist uncredited, as were all of the illustrators who created the various adverts for this range, however, this particular print-advert looks remarkably like the early work of the wonderful Caroline Smith. Discover more about the Baby Doll Range over at the Woolworth's Museum. And view some more Baby Doll print adverts in my previous posts:  News From Baby Doll Cosmetics  Rave Magazine (1967); What's Your Lucky Number? Baby Doll Make-Up - Rave Magazine (1968); Out-shine doll! Sun Shiny & Moon Shiny - Photoplay Magazine (1968); Baby Doll Make-Up - Jackie Magazine (1969). Plus some other examples of the 1930s influence on make-up and fashion in 1968 The New Vamp (1968); The Lady is a Vamp...Again! Queen Magazine (1968); all thanks to Bonnie - Fashion's New Darling (1968). And finally, wishing you all a very Happy New Year. 

Thursday, 13 December 2018

Score with Coleshoes! (1967)


                            SCORE WITH COLESHOES!

A great-looking pop art style print-advert from The Coles Boot Co Ltd. Having developed 'The Six-Five Special'―a shoe style designed to appeal to rock 'n' roll and skiffle fans, which was named after the popular BBC rock 'n' roll television show launched in 1957, the production factory in Burton Latimer became a mecca for various stars of the pop scene, including Adam Faith, Joe Brown and the Bruvvers, Tommy Steele, and The Monkees. Be sure to check out the links at the end of the post for more details about the company. 

                                         (1)  Chelsea boot. Italian classic design.

                                                                                    (2) The Boot.

                               (3) Fringe boot as worn by The Monkees.



                                            IMAGE CREDITS & LINKS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Intro Magazine, December 9th, 1967. Illustrator and photographer uncredited. Discover more about the heritage of The Coles Boot Co Ltd, established in 1908 by Wallace Coles in partnership with Frank Westley & Joseph Whitney, and further information about Burton Latimer's Boot and Shoe Trade. Watch Made in Great Britain (Series 1) Shoes: How Northampton dominated the shoe industry for centuries, becoming the shoe capital of Britain and exporting fancy footwear all over the globe. View some of my previous posts about 1960s footwear: Whatever Happened to Stephen Topper and Topper Shoes Carnaby Street; Just Dennis: A boy's angle on boys' fashion - Rave Magazine (1966). Rave Magazine Adverts for Manfield The Fashion Shoe Shop (1966) and (1967). Color is for Everyone! Pardon me - You're standing on my yellow foot Eye Magazine (1968); Some 'Dandy Fashion' via a Cavalli Shoes advert - from Queen Magazine (1969); Sew Your Own Boot Camp - DIY style via Seventeen Magazine (1971). The History of the Chelsea Boot - the design and invention of which is attributed to J. Sparkes-Hall, boot maker to Queen Victoria. The Monkees on tour in England (1967). Adam Faith in Budgie - Out. Series 1 Episode 1 (April 9th 1971).  And finally, it's Time to jive on the old six five.

Sunday, 2 December 2018

Eylure - the gold-rush is on! (1967)

                    EYLURE - THE GOLD-RUSH IS ON! 






                                          IMAGE CREDITS & LINKS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Intro Magazine, November 1967. All illustrations by Gloria. Discover more about Eylure – the world’s favourite brand for false eyelashes since 1947. Read ''Who Made Those False Eyelashes?'' and go back to the nineteenth century to find out more about their originsView some of my previous 1960s make-up posts: Seeing About Your Eyes (Rave Magazine 1965); Eye Look - from Max Factor (Rave Magazine 1968); Everything a girl needs to achieve that switched-on dolly look from Baby Doll Make-Up (Rave Magazine 1968); Mary Quant Make-Up (Honey Magazine 1967); Miners Hit Make-Up (Rave Magazine 1966); The New Look: Soft & Feminine (Rave Magazine 1967). And finally, The Five Faces of Twiggy (Queen Magazine 1968).

Monday, 26 November 2018

The Facts of Pop Life - Rave Magazine (1966)

                                                    THE FACTS OF POP LIFE

RAVE takes a long, hard look at the pop world and the people who make it tick. What's it all about, this real yet so close to fantasy world, where overnight you can either become famous or forgotten? Here then are for you the facts of life, the facts of pop life...Every time you spin a brand new single, that little black circle of pleasure cost 7s 6d.  Just under half a crown a minute! Add up all those minutes and half-crowns and you have a giant record industry making around £25,000,000 a year. Each month the giant offers you stacks of discs―157 singles in April, 218 in May, 166 in June―and asks, ''Do you dig this?, Would you go for that?'' But only once in forty times do enough of you say ''Yes'' for the record to break even on the cost of making it. The question is: What happens to that money of yours? Who gets it? Who profits? Who are the men and the machines behind the stars? You are entitled to know, so RAVE has tried to find out...

                                   WHERE YOUR MONEY GOES...




                         WHAT THE POP STAR EARNS...




                                           IMAGE CREDITS & LINKS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from Rave Magazine, August 1966. All illustrations by Barry Fantoni. Discover more about Barry Fantoni, Private Eye writer and cartoonist, author, designer of pop art backdrops for Ready, Steady, Go, sometimes actormusician, and presenter of the BBC Television show A Whole Scene Going - Part one (of  two), midway through this particular show he speaks to three club owners―Ray McFall of the Cavern Club, Liverpool, Allan Williams of The Blue Angel, Liverpool, and Paddy McKearnon of Mister Smith's, Manchester, who give their opinions on the direction they think pop music will go in 1966. Read 1966: The Year the Decade Exploded by Jon Savage reviewed by Robert Christagu. Music Moguls: Masters of Pop: Money Makers, the 2016 BBC documentary narrated by Simon Napier-Bell, featuring contributions from Andrew Loog-Oldham amongst others. Watch Expresso Bongo, a 1959 film satire of the music industry, directed by Val Guest.  Read a piece by Ray Connolly on the Origins of the films That'll Be The Day and Stardust, and then watch That'll Be The Day (1973) and Stardust (1974). Yvonne buys her way into the chartsshe can't sing but she's young! Smashing Time (1967). Lambert and Stamp the 2015 documentary about The Who's managers, Kit Lambert and Chris Stamp. Pop, power, populism and propaganda…How Peter Watkins’ futuristic satire Privilege (1967) predicted a time when mass media would be subverted to the needs of those in power. And finally, the three most important things a manager does, according to 'Supermensch' Shep Gordon is to “Get the money, always remember to get the money, and never forget to always remember to get the money!''

Monday, 22 October 2018

Les Collections de Printemps (1970) Laroche, Dior, Saint-Laurent, Courrèges, Phillipe Venet and Louis Feraud

              Les Collections de Printemps

                     Légendes du Dossier Haute Couture     

Designer Haute Couture, Guy Laroche,  Yves Saint-Laurent , Maxi Coats, Paris Fashion, illustration 1970

Left: Laroche, coat-dress plus matching trousers in pearl grey Woolmark 100% virgin wool crépe by Moreau. Right: Saint-Laurent midi coat in gaberdine, and Scotlaine pure worsted cotton high-waisted trousers with turn-ups.

Designer Phillipe Venet Midi Coat Paris Fashion Illustration 1970

                                              Phillipe Venet: Reversible beige and green Nattier wool midi coat.

Yves Saint-Laurent and Christian Dior Paris Fashion illustration Hélène Majera.1970
Left: Saint-Laurent white Forneris cashmere trousers with turn-ups, and royal blue Abraham crépe de chine blouse. Right: Christian Dior midi coat in beige wool. Below, very high waisted, cropped, wide legged pants, with buckle closure at the side.

Andre Courrèges Paris Fashion Illustration Hélène Majera.1970
                          Courrèges: Crépe combination embellished with large orange and green plastic circles.

Louis Feraud, Maxi Coat, Paris Fashion Illustration Hélène Majera.1970

                              Louis Feraud 100% Buccol wool, white midi length coat with silver metal ring detail.

Christian Dior Maxi Coat,  Paris Fashion Illustration Hélène Majera.1970
             Christian Dior reversible wool maxi coat, Racine jersey pants and Bianchini crépe georgette blouse.

                                           IMAGE CREDITS & LINKS 
All images scanned for the Sweet Jane blog from Dépèche Mode, March 1970, with thanks to The Sweet Book's Brad Jones. Illustrated by Hélène Majera. View part one of Les Collections de Printemps (1970) and more from the Paris collections for Spring 1970 in my previous posts Paris in the 70s illustrated by Leslie Chapman for Petticoat Magazine and The Ad-Lib Fashion Show at a Paris Bistro, photographed by Enrico Sarsini for LIFEDiscover the surprisingly rich and illustrious history behind trouser Turn-Ups via The Trouser Department I. Read The Story of Guy Laroche Couturier. And finally, you'll find some excellent examples of the Woolmark fabric manufacturers Moreau, Scotlaine and Forneris as featured in this post from the same period over on Vads (the online resource for the visual arts), and also the design archive from the Bianchini-Férier Textile estate via The Design Library. 

Sunday, 7 October 2018

Fun to live with: Designers Jon Wealleans and Jane Hill (1971)

                                   FUN TO LIVE WITH!

                                                        Jon Wealleans and Jane Hill.

1970s interior designers Jon Wealleans and Jane Hill, London

1970s interior design, Mr Freedom shop London, Jon Wealleans, Jane Hill

Left: An unusual escalator roller blind, which has been silk-screen printed in red and black, on cotton. Right: Plump and luxuriously cosy, quilted cushions, with 'Thirties' motifs. Photographs by Tim Street-Porter.

Jon Wealleans design Mr Freedom London 1970s
A false teeth sofa, with a soft and life-like tongue for some idle lounging. Designed by Jon Wealleans and upholstered by Felicity Youett, it's sold by Mr Freedom for £160. Photograph by Tim Street-Porter.

Jon Wealleans 1970s interior design Mr Freedom London

Candy-floss coloured and metallic PVC, intriguing foam-filled and interlocking Jigsaw seats, can be pieced together or else used separately. Photograph by Tim Street-Porter.

Jon Wealleans Mr Freedom design London 1970s

Jon Wealleans photographed at home with his PVC Jigsaw seat design, each unit was available for £30 from Mr Freedom.

                                                        IMAGE CREDITS & LINKS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from 19 Magazine, March, 1971. Original article by Penny Junor. All photographs by Tim Street-Porter. Except for the final photograph of Jon Wealleans at home which was scanned from 70s Style & Design by Dominic Lutyens and Kirsty Hislop. Discover more about about Jon Wealleans and his work in my book review Mr Freedom Tommy Roberts: British Design Hero by Paul Gorman. View Jon Wealleans working drawings for Mr Freedom: The greatest boutique ever, ever, ever? over on The Look - a fascinating insight into the creation of Mr Freedom in Kensington. Spend 5 minutes with Jon Wealleans (Mr Freedom's interior architect) on Rebel Rebel Anti-Style. View Jane Wealleans (nee Hill's) designs for OK Textiles Ltd in the 1970s.  'Why are you doing it? And if you stop doing it, would anybody care?' an interview with Jane for the Local Legends Research Project. Plus a Q&A with Jane, Founder and Director of Jane Wentworth Associates. And finally, some fantastic examples of  work designed & photographed by Howard Grey and made by Felicity Youett in 1967 and 1968.

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