Sunday, 7 February 2016

The Nouvelle Wave 1967

Curls are with us - and wild! So are crimps, floppy ringlets and waves. All because Vidal Sassoon permed his short cut into the Greek Goddess style. Hot in pursuit were top-poppers, Jimi Hendrix and Eric Clapton with wild, wild perms. Then the girls latched on - swapping their short cuts for curls.  Why are curls so great? They're crazy, gay, the new fun way to look. So who's looking new?


I don't entirely agree with the Jimi Hendrix reference, as Jimi had made his trailblazing London debut on the 24th of September 1966 (almost a year to day before this magazine article went to print) and was already sporting a version of the natural total look! but below are two examples of the influential Vidal Sassoon hairstyle mentioned in the piece, which he created at the beginning of 1967 (sometime in January by my calculations). Although it was known as the 'Greek Goddess' this name was the second choice for the style, the first being 'Harlem' as it was originally inspired by his many trips through the neighborhood while in New York. He had greatly admired the closely cut but defined curls as worn by the black American community there and was determined to recreate a similar look for Caucasian and Asian hair. However, at this particular point in time, Vidal, recovering from a recent illness, found himself under strict doctor's orders to take it easy, but ever the workaholic he was nonetheless eager to pursue this goal as soon as possible, so enlisting the talents of his salon staff he developed the style along with them in an advisory capacity using two separate models, Jane Johns and Jenny Fussell. The creative team for this endeavor included hairdressers Roger Thompson and Christopher Brooker with technicians Annie Humphries, Clare Hamilton and Allison Benson, they began the process on Friday morning at the Grosvenor Salon and continued working on it relentlessly over the entire weekend, by Sunday they finally made a breakthrough and the revolutionary new style had been created. Photographs were taken immediately, and after a quick phone call to fashion journalist Felicity Green on the monday it was featured in the next day's Daily Mirror, in which she called the cut the 'New Revolution', and by the following day American Vogue were interested! It's probably difficult nowadays to fathom why or how a hairstyle could cause such a sensation but at the time it was truly groundbreaking on many levels. Further information about the style & Vidal Sassoon can be found via the links at the end of the post.

Jane Johns modelling one of the first Greek Goddess styles, a short tousled look, in which Vidal Sassoon proved that by using his precision cutting technique, hair could then be permed and left to dry naturally without the aid of rollers or pins, this new technique also liberated many women from the routine weekly appointment of having their hair set. Hair styled by Roger Thompson. Photographs by Stephen Bobroff, 1967.                                                

Jenny Fussell also modelling the Greek Goddess style, Hair styled by Christopher Brooker. Photograph by Stephen Bobroff, 1967. Courtesy of Rex Features.

                                            IMAGE CREDITS & LINKS
All illustrated images scanned by Sweet Jane from Intro Issue No.1 23rd September 1967, artist uncredited.  Jane Johns modeling 'The Goddess' scanned from Vidal - The Autobiography by Vidal Sassoon. Listen to a BBC Radio interview with Vidal Sassoon from 2010 here. A closer look and further details about the Greek Goddess haircut on the excellent 'Personalities in the revolution of hair design in the 60s 70s ' forum (with contributions from the original Sassoon stylists) here.  Watch Bouffants, Beehives and Bobs: The Hairstyles That Shaped Britain here and also When Hairdressers Ruled - a very informative short documentary about some of the people that made Sassoon's the phenomenon it became, from 1963 ~ 1978 here A dedication to hairdresser Roger Thompson by Gerard Austen here. Harlem street style in the 1970s here. Jimi Hendrix Private Performance at the Marquee Club, March, 1967 hereJimi Hendrix arrives in London hereand finally, rare movie footage of Jimi with Johnny Hallyday &  friends in France (October 1966) here.

Sunday, 31 January 2016

Les Gilets Juniors 1969

Thousands of vests were, this year, sold with pants : long and buttoned, they camouflaged hips : co-ordinated, they suited all silhouettes. For a change, and because they are not afraid to focus on their slim torso and hips, juniors will prefer the very short, heavily patterned knit styles this winter. Turn the vest into the star and organize one of these very young tomboy style outfits around it with wool knee socks, pants, shorts and frilly skirts.

Above: Woolmark gilet in shades of blue (Agnes B. pour Limitex, 75F, chez Mouche), Pure silk blouse, finely striped (Dennet Barry). For long legs only: flannel shorts to the knees (Etam, 45F), Thick wool socks (Dépositaires Pingouin Stemm), Sunglasses (Lissac). 

Small irregular striped wool vest ( Harry Lans, 105F, from Galeries Lafayette) Funny and refined, the coordinated blouse, speckled with small horses (Emmanuelle Khanh for Le Bistrot du Tricot, 98F, chez Turlututu). Buttoned pants in pure new wool (Agnes B. pour Limitex, 110F, à la Gisquette ), Wool Hat (Lil), Boots with flat heels (Shop 22), Big round glasses ( Lissac).

Main photo: Cheerful little vest in pure new wool Jacquardé (Agnes B. pour Limitex, 75F, à la Gaminerie), Mini skirt in wool check, which gathers into V shaped yoke (Berluc, 89F, chez J.N.S, 3), jersey blouse (Dennet Barry).

Top: Dog Collar blouse (Boutique Berge). Kid gloves (Gants Lux). New: socks above the knee, natural wool (Dépositaires Pingouin Stemm). Varnished laced shoes with round toe (Jocelyn). Bottom: exception here - the top is Scottish, English plaid open V sweater, (Kingsbury, 85F, Au Printemps). And the skirt is replaced by the grey flannel straight legged trousers (Arvel, La Gaminerie 119F). Socks match the sweater (Kingsbury). Victorian style brown leather laced pioneer boots (Tilbury).

                           IMAGE CREDITS & LINKS
All images scanned for the Sweet Jane Blog from ELLE Magazine 16th August 1969 with thanks to Brad Jones. All photographs by Peter Knapp, original fashion editorial by Catherine Rousso for Elle. Photographs taken on location at Vèlodrome de la cipale, à Vincennes . Discover more about the origins of the Agnès B. label here. Further details about the history behind the Argyle pattern here. View one of my previous posts featuring the work of designer Emmanuelle Khanh here & visit her website hereTomboy Style: Beyond the Boundaries of Fashion by Lizzie Garrett Mettler here and finally view more examples of photographer Peter Knapp's work here.

Monday, 18 January 2016

BONNIE: Fashion's New Darling 1968


                                                       '30s style beret with long cardigan suit by Elite.

                                   BONNIE COMES ON WITH A STYLISH BANG!
Actress Faye Dunaway, the gun-toting Bonnie Parker in Bonnie and Clyde, has already done for the beret what Bardot did for the bikini. Now the fashion world's newest Darling is the stunning inspiration for a full-blast return to '30 styles, both here and abroad. Though revivals have cropped up before it took the impact of the film to bring about a new synthesis that (as shown in Gayle Kirkpatrick's outfits $100 and $125) blends the softness and droopy fit of the '30s with the swing and legginess of the '60s.

Left; This polka-dot cocktail dress ($185) is silk georgette (a'30s fabric). It has the characteristic limp flutter of the era, but a contemporary above-the-knee hemline. Dots on stockings match dress. Right; Resort outfit ($115) -as well as the other on this page - is from a '30s-inspired collection designed in Italy by Krizia and imported by Bendel. Period mid-calf length is styled for poolside luncheon.

Left; Stripe knit outfit ($110) combines typical '30s-style cardigan with a V-necked dress. The big-brimmed hat and the crochet edging used on the neckline are also straight out of the period.  Right; Simplicity of a Depression era housedress is glorified in mid-calf length dinner dress ($650) of rickrack sequins for drop-dead chic. The little linen collar is in keeping with the tongue-in-cheek poor look.

Above; Switching roles, Bonnie becomes Clyde. She wears pin-striped gangster suit from Geoffrey Beene ($495). Clyde, too, is making an impact on the girls; a return of tough tailoring as a change from the bias softness. Faye digs both looks.

Decades away from Bonnie and Clyde, Faye has a current movie-star look in mini-dress by John Moore ($500). Her whipped up curls are a wig arrangement by Kenneth, who often does her hair. 

                                                    IMAGE CREDITS & LINKS
All original text/images scanned by Sweet Jane from LIFE magazine January 12 1968. All photographs by Greene-Eula. Watch the original trailer for Bonnie and Clyde here. Read Roger Ebert's 1967 review of the film here. View the 2009 BBC Timewatch documentary about The Real Bonnie and Clyde here. Discover more about Blanche Barrow here. Explore images & artifacts from the Dallas Police Department Historical Records and Case Files on the Clyde Barrow Gang via their collection here. And finally Serge Gainsbourg & Brigitte Bardot - performing Bonnie And Clyde (1968) here plus Bonnie Parker's original poetry & inspiration behind the lyrics here

Thursday, 31 December 2015

Goodbye, Hello!

                                      Goodbye 2015  &  Hello 2016!
           Wishing you all a very Happy New Year & thanks for stopping by the Sweet Jane blog! xo   

                                                                                  IMAGE CREDIT
Image scanned by Sweet Jane from Carnaby Street by Tom Salter, published by M & J Hobbs 1970, illustration by Malcolm English.

Tuesday, 22 December 2015

A very moving idea for Christmas... 1967

                                                           IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS
Image scanned for the Sweet Jane blog from original BSA advertisement postcard 1967 with thanks to Brad Jones. Photographer & model uncredited. Discover more about BSA Motorcycles-the final evolution by Brad Jones published by Veloce Publishing Ltd here & also here, View some Dolly Rocker inspired gear from 1968 in one of my previous posts here, more biker inspired looks from this period here & also here. Beyond Rebellion: Fashioning the biker Jacket-an online exhibition at FIT New York here and finally, 31 biker movie trailers from 1953-1973 here.

Sunday, 29 November 2015

Bermubas de Rosy 1968

                                                                            Hair by Elrhodes

                                                          IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS
Image scanned for the Sweet Jane blog from Jours de France 17th February 1968 with thanks to Brad Jones. Hair by Elrhodes, photographer uncredited.  Read about the history of French Lingerie here, Discover more about the heritage of the Rosy Lingerie brand which began in 1947 here. A link to further information about the hairdressser Jean-Yves Elrhodes here and finally a photo of his salon in Paris here.

Tuesday, 17 November 2015

Spring Combines 1970

Spring pants are soft and sheer, like a thin tissue over the leg. They will be made up of the same limp fabric as the new, long slinky dresses., as well as from velvet, slippery satin ciré, crocheting and laced up suede. All right day and night, the year round. And look for combinations: blouses half-cached under short sleeved silk T-shirts, anchored by some sort of dripping sash or heavy, elaborate belt, and head scarves trailing over one shoulder. More rights of spring: Veronica Lake hair and low boots.

Softly cuving jersey tunic tied at the shoulder and sashed at the waist with wide-legged pants. By Giorgio di Sant' Angelo, $199.50 at Saks Fifth Avenue.

Chiffon cardigan cut bare and bathroby over pants of the same print. Lizard sandals. All by Halston. Available in the Halston boutique, Bloomingdale's, $300.

Extremely well-seamed mid-calf dress which fastens with snaps and studded belt. Worn above matching pants and black suede boots. Dress, $80; pants. $35. All designed by Luba. At Bloomingdale's.

Skin colored tunic and flimsy pants. In the background, loose chemise dress, gathered at the waist. By Gayle Kirkpatrick. Linguini strapped sandals by Capezio. Dress, $145; blouse and pants, $240. All at Lord & Taylor. 

                                        IMAGE CREDIT & LINKS
All images scanned by Sweet Jane from New York Magazine 26 January 1970. Original editorial by Caterine Millinare. Illustrations by Barbara Nessim. Discover more about designer Gayle Kirkpatrick here, view other examples of his work in some of my previous posts here & also here. Read about the designer Giorgio di Sant' Angelo here. Visit the website of the artist Barbara Nessim here to view an amazing selection of her work from the 1960s to the present day and much more (a must see for any illustrator). View a video interview in which she discusses her work and the inspiration behind it here. Discover more about the heritage of Halston here and finally, read about the Russian designer Luba Marks here.